Objective Evaluation of the Quality of Ladies' Garment Fabrics

Takako Inoué, M. Niwa
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引用次数: 4

Abstract

Ladies' garments differ from menswear in that they come in a vast variety of designs and make use of fabrics with greatly varying mechanical properties to compose various silhouettes. Accordingly, there is great difficulty in performing objective fabric quality evaluations of ladies garment than formenswear. Hence quality evaluations have been generally based on the experiences of garment designers and apparel makers. Women's apparel is strongly influenced by trends in color, pattern, fashion and so on, and there are various appraisal standards for the quality of fabrics. Therefore, this research's first aim was to analyze the results of subjective fabric material evaluation conducted by the experts of women's apparel fabrics' manufacture, retail, design, etc., and to make clear those appraisal standards. Next, ladies' garment fabrics were divided into three silhouette types, Tailored Type, Drape Type, and Anti-Drape (Hari) Type, based on the fabrics' basic mechanical properties. We then derived, for each silhouette type, a method for objective evaluation of the quality of fabrics, that is to say the Total Hand Value (THV), which utilizes the fabrics' basic mechanical properties. At the same time, the data evaluation of the objective quality evaluation system has validated it as an effective method for predicting the quality of ladies' garment fabrics.
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目的对女装面料质量进行评价
女装与男装的不同之处在于,女装有各种各样的设计,并使用机械性能差异很大的面料来组成各种轮廓。因此,对女装进行客观的面料质量评价要比对男装困难得多。因此,质量评价通常是基于服装设计师和服装制造商的经验。女装在色彩、图案、时尚等方面受到潮流的强烈影响,对面料的质量也有各种各样的评价标准。因此,本研究的第一个目的是分析女装面料制造、零售、设计等方面的专家对面料材料进行主观评价的结果,明确这些评价标准。其次,根据面料的基本力学性能,将女装面料分为剪裁型、褶皱型和抗褶皱型三种廓形类型。然后,我们为每种廓形类型推导出一种客观评价织物质量的方法,即利用织物的基本机械性能的总手值(THV)。同时,通过对客观质量评价体系的数据评价,验证了该体系是预测女装面料质量的有效方法。
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