Investigating parameters affecting the real and virtual drapability of silk fabrics for traditional Hanbok

IF 2.3 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Fashion and Textiles Pub Date : 2024-05-21 DOI:10.1186/s40691-024-00388-6
Jeong Hwa Kim, Jung-Soon Lee
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Abstract

This paper presents research into the parameters affecting the real and virtual drapability of silk fabrics for traditional Hanbok. The KES-FB (Kawabata evaluation system of fabric) and the CLO (3D fashion design software) fabric kit system were used to evaluate the physical properties. The relationships between physical properties and the drape coefficient of silk fabrics were statistically analyzed. It was determined whether the objectified real fabric data could be used and applied as a database when implementing virtual clothing using a 3D virtual clothing program. The KES-FB properties and CLO fabric kit results indicated that the bending property and weight were significantly correlated with the drape coefficient. The bending rigidity and weight per unit area were influential parameters of the drape coefficient. The regression analysis results of both the KES-FB and the CLO fabric kit revealed that bending rigidity and thickness were statistically significantly correlated with the drape coefficient. The bending property was the most determining parameter for the drape coefficient of silk fabrics. A statistically significant difference between the real and virtual drape coefficients of stiffer silk fabrics was found. In the CLO 7.1 program, the accuracy of drape implementation of virtual fabrics was found to be useful when the bending stiffness of the actual fabric was less than 0.089 gf·cm2/cm and the elasticity was more than 1.03%. The results revealed that more research on the program modeling method considering the mechanical and physical properties of the real fabric and its structure is needed.

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调查影响传统汉服丝织物真实和虚拟悬垂性的参数
本文研究了影响传统汉服丝绸面料真实和虚拟悬垂性的参数。本文采用 KES-FB(川端面料评估系统)和 CLO(三维时装设计软件)面料套件系统对物理特性进行评估。统计分析了丝绸面料的物理特性与悬垂系数之间的关系。确定了在使用三维虚拟服装程序实现虚拟服装时,是否可以将客观化的真实织物数据作为数据库使用和应用。KES-FB 特性和 CLO 织物套件结果表明,弯曲特性和重量与悬垂系数显著相关。弯曲刚度和单位面积重量是影响悬垂系数的参数。KES-FB 和 CLO 织物套件的回归分析结果表明,弯曲刚度和厚度与悬垂系数在统计上有明显的相关性。弯曲性能是丝织物悬垂系数的最大决定性参数。在统计上,较硬丝织物的实际悬垂系数与虚拟悬垂系数之间存在明显差异。在 CLO 7.1 程序中,当实际织物的弯曲刚度小于 0.089 gf-cm2/cm,弹性大于 1.03%时,虚拟织物的悬垂实施精度是有用的。结果表明,需要对考虑实际织物的机械和物理特性及其结构的程序建模方法进行更多研究。
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来源期刊
Fashion and Textiles
Fashion and Textiles Business, Management and Accounting-Marketing
CiteScore
4.40
自引率
4.20%
发文量
37
审稿时长
13 weeks
期刊介绍: Fashion and Textiles aims to advance knowledge and to seek new perspectives in the fashion and textiles industry worldwide. We welcome original research articles, reviews, case studies, book reviews and letters to the editor. The scope of the journal includes the following four technical research divisions: Textile Science and Technology: Textile Material Science and Technology; Dyeing and Finishing; Smart and Intelligent Textiles Clothing Science and Technology: Physiology of Clothing/Textile Products; Protective clothing ; Smart and Intelligent clothing; Sportswear; Mass customization ; Apparel manufacturing Economics of Clothing and Textiles/Fashion Business: Management of the Clothing and Textiles Industry; Merchandising; Retailing; Fashion Marketing; Consumer Behavior; Socio-psychology of Fashion Fashion Design and Cultural Study on Fashion: Aesthetic Aspects of Fashion Product or Design Process; Textiles/Clothing/Fashion Design; Fashion Trend; History of Fashion; Costume or Dress; Fashion Theory; Fashion journalism; Fashion exhibition.
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