Using cephalopod-inspired chemistry to extend long-wavelength ultraviolet and visible light protection of mineral sunscreens

IF 2.7 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2024-07-19 DOI:10.1111/ics.12993

Leila F. Deravi, Isabel Cui, Camille A. Martin

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Abstract

Objective

The emergence of new human and environmental-related toxicity data associated with some common UV filters has catalysed growing interest in the inclusion of boosters and stabilizing ingredients in sunscreens. One approach is to incorporate alternative materials inspired by or mimetic of systems in biology, which offer a notable evolutionary advantage of multifunctionality and stability with increased biocompatibility. We describe the use of a natural product, Xanthochrome® (INCI: Ammonium Xanthommatin), in a series of studies designed to not only assess its safety with marine systems but also its formulation compatibility and function in water-in-oil mineral sunscreens. Xanthochrome is the synthetic form of the naturally occurring chromophore xanthommatin (XA) present in cephalopod skin, which doubles as a photostable antioxidant; however, it has never been explored in combination with mineral UV filters in finished formulations.

Methods

Given the recent controversies associated with the environmental toxicological effects of some chemicals used in sunscreens, the safety of XA with coral cuttings was first validated at concentrations 5× above those used in our formulations. Next, a particle-based delivery of XA was designed and incorporated into a zinc oxide (ZnO)-based water-in-oil sunscreen, where the SPF, critical wavelength, and visible light (VL) blocking potential were measured.

Results

We observed no adverse effects of XA at 100 mg/L when tested with coral cuttings, demonstrating its safety at concentrations exceeding those used in our sunscreens. When formulated with ZnO-based sunscreens, the inclusion of XA increased the total UV absorbance profile by 28% and the total blocking potential of VL by 45%. The formulations also elicited no dermal irritation or sensitization in a human insult repeat patch test (N = 100 subjects).

Conclusions

XA is differentiated as a photostable, water-soluble compound that is a VL booster proven safe for skin and coral cuttings. To the best of our knowledge, there are no other boosters that can be classified as such, despite a growing body of literature highlighting the need in the industry.

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利用头足类动物启发的化学原理，延长矿物防晒霜的长波紫外线和可见光防护能力。

目的：一些常见的紫外线过滤剂对人体和环境产生了新的毒性数据，这促使人们越来越关注在防晒霜中加入增效剂和稳定成分。其中一种方法是采用受生物系统启发或模仿生物系统的替代材料，这种材料具有显著的进化优势，即多功能性和稳定性，并具有更强的生物相容性。我们介绍了天然产品 Xanthochrome®（INCI：Amonium Xanthommatin）在一系列研究中的使用情况，这些研究不仅旨在评估其对海洋系统的安全性，还评估了其在油包水型矿物防晒剂中的配方兼容性和功能。Xanthochrome 是头足类动物皮肤中天然存在的发色团 xanthommatin (XA) 的合成形式，它具有光稳定性抗氧化剂的双重作用；但在成品配方中将其与矿物紫外线过滤剂结合使用的情况还从未被探索过：方法：鉴于最近与防晒霜中使用的某些化学物质的环境毒理影响有关的争议，首先验证了珊瑚切片中 XA 的安全性，其浓度比我们配方中使用的浓度高 5 倍。接着，我们设计了一种以颗粒为基础的 XA 给药方式，并将其加入到以氧化锌（ZnO）为基础的油包水型防晒霜中，测量了防晒系数（SPF）、临界波长和可见光（VL）阻挡潜力：结果：在用珊瑚切片进行测试时，我们观察到 100 毫克/升的 XA 不会产生不良影响，这表明其安全性超过了防晒霜中使用的浓度。在与氧化锌防晒霜配制时，加入 XA 可使总紫外线吸收率曲线提高 28%，VL 的总阻断潜力提高 45%。在人体侮辱性重复贴片测试中，这些配方也没有引起皮肤刺激或过敏反应（N = 100 名受试者）：结论：XA 是一种光稳定的水溶性化合物，是一种经证实对皮肤和珊瑚切口安全的 VL 增效剂。据我们所知，目前还没有其他增效剂可以归类为此类增效剂，尽管有越来越多的文献强调了该行业的需求。

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来源期刊

International Journal of Cosmetic Science DERMATOLOGY-

CiteScore

4.60

自引率

4.30%

发文量

期刊介绍： The Journal publishes original refereed papers, review papers and correspondence in the fields of cosmetic research. It is read by practising cosmetic scientists and dermatologists, as well as specialists in more diverse disciplines that are developing new products which contact the skin, hair, nails or mucous membranes. The aim of the Journal is to present current scientific research, both pure and applied, in: cosmetics, toiletries, perfumery and allied fields. Areas that are of particular interest include: studies in skin physiology and interactions with cosmetic ingredients, innovation in claim substantiation methods (in silico, in vitro, ex vivo, in vivo), human and in vitro safety testing of cosmetic ingredients and products, physical chemistry and technology of emulsion and dispersed systems, theory and application of surfactants, new developments in olfactive research, aerosol technology and selected aspects of analytical chemistry.