Predicting tactile sensory attributes of personal care emulsions based on instrumental characterizations: A review

IF 2.7 4区 医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2024-07-25 DOI:10.1111/ics.13004
Elie Akanny, Christina Kohlmann
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Abstract

Emulsions in the form of creams, lotions, gels or foams are the most widely used personal care formulations to improve the condition and feel of the skin. Achieving an optimal balance between their performance, effectiveness and sensory profile is essential, with the sensory profile being a key factor in consumer satisfaction and the success of these products in the market. Well-established methods using highly trained and semi-trained panels (e.g. Spectrum descriptive analysis, Flash Profile method, Quantitative Descriptive Analysis method and ‘Check-all-that-apply’) are available and commonly used for the sensory assessment of personal care products. Nevertheless, a common drawback among all these methods is their inherent cost, both in terms of financial resources and time requirements. In recent years, research studies have emerged to address this limitation by investigating potential correlations between tactile sensory attributes and instrumental data associated with the physical characteristics of topical formulations. In other words, significant efforts have been invested in the development of robust instrumental methods specifically designed to accurately predict the sensory description that a panel of assessors could establish. These methods are not only faster, cheaper and more objective compared to traditional sensory testing, but they can also be applied to formulations that have not undergone extensive safety and toxicological testing. This review summarizes the most relevant findings, trends and current challenges in predicting tactile sensory attributes of personal care emulsions based on instrumental parameters.

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基于仪器表征预测个人护理乳液的触觉属性:综述。
膏霜、乳液、凝胶或泡沫形式的乳液是最广泛使用的个人护理配方,可改善皮肤状况和肤感。在性能、功效和感官特征之间实现最佳平衡至关重要,而感官特征则是消费者满意度和这些产品在市场上取得成功的关键因素。使用训练有素和半训练有素的评审团(如光谱描述性分析法、闪光轮廓法、定量描述性分析法和 "全适用检查法")进行个人护理产品感官评估的方法已经成熟并得到普遍使用。然而,所有这些方法的一个共同缺点是其固有的成本,包括财政资源和时间要求。近年来,为了解决这一局限性,出现了通过调查触觉属性和与外用配方物理特性相关的仪器数据之间的潜在关联性来解决这一问题的研究。换句话说,我们已经投入了大量精力,开发专门用于准确预测评估人员小组可能建立的感官描述的可靠仪器方法。与传统的感官测试相比,这些方法不仅速度更快、成本更低、更加客观,而且还可用于尚未经过广泛安全性和毒理学测试的配方。本综述总结了基于仪器参数预测个人护理乳液触感属性方面最相关的发现、趋势和当前挑战。
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来源期刊
CiteScore
4.60
自引率
4.30%
发文量
73
期刊介绍: The Journal publishes original refereed papers, review papers and correspondence in the fields of cosmetic research. It is read by practising cosmetic scientists and dermatologists, as well as specialists in more diverse disciplines that are developing new products which contact the skin, hair, nails or mucous membranes. The aim of the Journal is to present current scientific research, both pure and applied, in: cosmetics, toiletries, perfumery and allied fields. Areas that are of particular interest include: studies in skin physiology and interactions with cosmetic ingredients, innovation in claim substantiation methods (in silico, in vitro, ex vivo, in vivo), human and in vitro safety testing of cosmetic ingredients and products, physical chemistry and technology of emulsion and dispersed systems, theory and application of surfactants, new developments in olfactive research, aerosol technology and selected aspects of analytical chemistry.
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