AnMePa:利用反托式测量系统开发制作裤型的新方法

IF 1 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology Pub Date : 2024-03-15 DOI:10.1108/ijcst-09-2023-0141
Arzu Şen Kılıç, Can Ünal, Ziynet Ondogan
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引用次数: 0

摘要

目的 本研究利用根据人体测量系统规则获得的测量数据,确定了新的基本裤型的原则和工艺步骤。本研究中新开发的制版系统将被称为 "基于人体测量的制版系统"(AnMePa)。设计/方法/途径在这项研究中,我们将世界上许多地方使用的四种制版系统与 "基于人体测量的制版系统"(AnMePa)进行了比较,以了解根据这些系统制备的裤子的整体外观和人体合身性。研究人员制作了 10 个不同成年女性身体尺寸的虚拟人体模型(VM),并为这些人体模型制作了裤子版型。在三维虚拟试衣系统中,在人体模型上制作并试穿裤子的版型。五位专家对虚拟服装的合身性进行了评估。研究结果根据研究结果可以看出,利用人体测量系统 AnMePa 开发的新基本裤型,在根据其他所研究的制版系统制作的基本裤型中,具有最佳的人体合身性。在开发的 AnMePa 中,与现有的制版系统不同的是,在制版过程中使用了可与个人身体测量值相关联的、适合每个群体的值,而不是恒定值。此外,三维虚拟试衣和模糊逻辑在评估服装合身性方面的整合被认为是一种开创性的方法,对未来的服装设计和生产具有重要意义。
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AnMePa: development of a new method for preparing trousers pattern by using the antropometric measurement system

Purpose

This study establishes the principles and process steps of a new basic trousers pattern using measurements obtained according to the rules of the anthropometric measurement system. The newly developed pattern-making system in this study will be called the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa). It is aimed at producing trousers that are more fitting to the body, thanks to this pattern-making system.

Design/methodology/approach

In this research, four pattern-making systems used in many parts of the world were compared with the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa) with regard to the overall appearance and body fit of trousers prepared according to these systems. 10 virtual mannequins (VM) with different adult female body measurements were created, and trousers patterns were prepared for these mannequins. The trousers’ patterns were made and dressed on the mannequins in a 3D virtual dressing system. The body fit of the virtual garments was evaluated by five experts. The scores given by the experts were evaluated using the fuzzy logic method.

Findings

According to the results, it is seen that the new basic trousers pattern developed by utilizing the anthropometric measurement system, AnMePa, provides the best body fit among the basic trousers patterns created according to the other examined pattern-making systems. The combination of 3D virtual dressing and fuzzy logic in the evaluation of garment body fit is considered an innovative method for the future of fashion design and production.

Originality/value

In the developed AnMePa, unlike the existing pattern-making systems, values that can be associated with the body measurements of individuals in a way that could be suitable for each community were used instead of constant values in the pattern-making process. Furthermore, the integration of 3D virtual fitting and fuzzy logic in assessing garment fit is considered a pioneering approach with significant implications for the future landscape of fashion design and production.

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来源期刊
CiteScore
2.40
自引率
8.30%
发文量
51
审稿时长
10 months
期刊介绍: Addresses all aspects of the science and technology of clothing-objective measurement techniques, control of fibre and fabric, CAD systems, product testing, sewing, weaving and knitting, inspection systems, drape and finishing, etc. Academic and industrial research findings are published after a stringent review has taken place.
期刊最新文献
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