"这不仅仅是服装的问题":在 #RushTok 上时尚性别、种族和阶级

IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q3 BUSINESS Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Pub Date : 2024-04-03 DOI:10.1177/0887302x241244789
Maureen Lehto Brewster
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引用次数: 0

摘要

这篇手稿分析了 TikTok 上的 "每日一装"(OOTD)内容,以思考在被称为 "RushTok "的数字社交中,时尚服饰风格和社交媒体实践如何(重新)在泛壳女生联谊会中产生性别、种族和阶级规范。我使用了女权主义虚拟民族志来探究 2022 年泛希腊女学生联谊会招募周期内制作的 97 个 OOTD 视频。我在这些数据中追踪了联谊会女孩的概念,以描绘她在 RushTok 社交中的出现和影响。我发现,RushTok OOTDs 对传统时尚媒体的做法进行了重塑,这种社交中的风格-时尚-着装做法强调奢侈品牌、高度女性化但保守的风格以及身体纪律。这些都是由空间和算法逻辑(重新)塑造的,这些逻辑赋予了联谊会女孩(重新)产生白人、富有、女性化理想的特权。泛希腊女学生联谊会的逻辑与 TikTok 算法相互作用,使这种理想化的女学生联谊会更加明显,从而进一步(重新)产生了差异等级。
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“It's Not Just About the Outfits”: Fashioning Gender, Race, and Class on #RushTok
This manuscript analyzes outfit of the day (OOTD) content on TikTok to consider how the style-fashion-dress and social media practices in the digital sociality known as “RushTok” (re)produce gender, race, and class norms in Panhellenic sororities. I used feminist virtual ethnography to explore 97 OOTD videos produced during the 2022 Panhellenic sorority recruitment cycle. I followed the concept of the sorority girl around this data to map her emergence and effects in the RushTok sociality. I find that RushTok OOTDs remediate practices from traditional fashion media, and that the style-fashion-dress practices in this sociality emphasize luxury branding, highly feminine but conservative styles, and bodily discipline. These are (re)shaped by spatial and algorithmic logics, which privilege enactments of the sorority girl that (re)produce the White, wealthy, cisfeminine ideal. The logics of Panhellenic sororities intra-act with the TikTok algorithm to make this idealized sorority girl more visible, further (re)producing hierarchies of difference.
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来源期刊
CiteScore
5.30
自引率
5.30%
发文量
12
期刊介绍: Published quarterly, Clothing & Textiles Research Journal strives to strengthen the research base in clothing and textiles, facilitate scholarly interchange, demonstrate the interdisciplinary nature of the field, and inspire further research. CTRJ publishes articles in the following areas: •Textiles, fiber, and polymer science •Aesthetics and design •Consumer Theories and Behavior •Social and psychological aspects of dress or educational issues •Historic and cultural aspects of dress •International/retailing/merchandising management and industry analysis
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