中国昆曲服饰风格原理在现代设计中的创新应用

S. Chen, T. Krotova
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引用次数: 0

摘要

目标:深入研究以中国非物质文化遗产价值为基础的当代设计创新实践,特别是利用昆曲舞台服装的造型和装饰特点及技艺创造现代正装或休闲服装的模式。研究方法。研究采用了历史、分析和年代学方法,以及形式和形象风格分析方法。结果。在系统整理文献资料的基础上,研究了青春版《牡丹亭》不同场景中主要人物服装的独特性。归纳了造型方法和风格,并将服装的主要构成元素(头饰、马面裙、褶皱、斗篷)的风格、色彩和图案等特点融入到作者自己的设计方案中,为现代服饰设计提供了参考。文章以中国当代设计师木心的作品为例,展示了舞台服装表现可能性的整合如何塑造当代设计的审美趋势并拓展其创造潜力。这项研究的科学新意在于找出昆曲舞台服装的表现特征,并提出将其融入现代服装的方法。将非物质文化遗产价值融入现代潮流,不仅拓展了设计的可能性,也为传统文化的传承开辟了一条途径。实际意义。研究青春版《牡丹亭》昆曲服饰的艺术审美特征,运用创新的设计方法,不仅是设计师的重要创作和研究领域,也是舞台设计师、艺术史和服装史学家的重要研究领域。研究材料可用于教育课程和服装设计实践。
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INNOVATIVE APPLICATION OF CHINESE KUNQU OPERA COSTUMES STYLE PRINCIPLES IN MODERN DESIGN
Goal: an in-depth study of innovative practices of contemporary design based on the values of China's intangible cultural heritage, in particular, the use of formative and decorative characteristics and techniques of the Kunqu Opera stage costume in the creation of modern models of clothing for dressy or casual use. Methodology. The study uses historical, analytical, and chronological methods, as well as methods of formal and figurative-stylistic analysis. Results. Based on the systematization of documentary materials, the unique features of the costumes of the main characters in different scenes of the youth version of «The Peony Pavilion» opera have been studied. Formative and stylistic approaches have been generalized, and the characteristics of the costume, such as the Style of the main constituent elements (The headdress, Horse-face Skirt, Pleats, Cloak), as well as Colors and Patterns, have been integrated into the author's own design solution for the design of modern costumes for dress purposes. Based on the example of the contemporary Chinese designer MUKZIN's collection, the article shows how the integration of expressive possibilities of stage costumes can shape aesthetic trends in contemporary design and expand its creative potential. The scientific novelty of the study is to identify the expressive characteristics of the Kunqu Opera stage costume and to propose an approach for its integration into modern clothing. The integration of intangible cultural heritage values into modern trends not only expands the possibilities of design but also opens up a way to preserve traditional culture. Practical significance. The study of the artistic and aesthetic features of the costumes of the Kunqu Opera in the Youth Version of «The Peony Pavilion» and the application of innovative design approaches is an important area of creativity and research not only for designers but also for stage designers and art and fashion historians. The materials of the research can be used in educational courses as well as in costume design practices.
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