Evaluation of molecular interaction between intercellular lipid organization in human stratum corneum and terpenes using time-resolved synchrotron X-ray diffraction

The stratum corneum (SC) presents certain limitations for topical administration of medication, which can be overcome using penetration enhancers (PEs) such as terpene (TP). The SC is also crucial for maintaining the skin barrier and consists of two lamellar structures: the short periodicity phase (SPP) and long periodicity phase (LPP). In this study, we monitored changes in the X-ray diffraction peaks of the human SC, 30 min after TP application (neroridol, 1,8-cineol, and d-limonene). With the application of nerolidol, no significant changes were observed in the small-angle diffraction peak positions for the lamellar structure of SPP, but the integrated intensity decreased. On the contrary, when applying 1,8-cineole and d-limonene, a lower angle peak shift with broadening of the peak width of SPP diffraction peaks was observed for d-limonene than for 1,8-cineole, and the degree of peak shift and width broadening was greater for d-limonene than for 1,8-cineole. The diffraction peaks of LPP disappeared when 1,8-cineole and d-limonene were applied. These results indicate that the degree of interaction between the SC and TP differs depending on the molecular species, and d-limonene and 1,8-cineole exhibit penetration-enhancing via lamellar structure disruption of both SPP and LPP, immediately after application.