高级时装从边缘到核心:可可·香奈儿的创业之旅

IF 0.7 2区 历史学 Q4 BUSINESS Enterprise & Society Pub Date : 2022-01-12 DOI:10.1017/eso.2021.58
G. Cattani, M. Colucci, S. Ferriani
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引用次数: 1

摘要

我们追溯了加布里埃尔·“可可”·香奈儿作为一名时装设计师的创业历程,从她作为一个局外人的早期(20世纪初),到她在法国高级时装领域(30年代初)取得成功并被奉为偶像(这个领域由强大的内部人士控制)。我们的研究揭示了一个局外人从一个既定领域的边缘走向核心的旅程背后的社会力量和历史环境。利用独特的历史材料,我们发展了一种新的过程观点,强调了在不同层次上运作的力量的变化影响,这些力量在积累、部署和各种形式的资本(即人力、社会、经济和象征)的转换中发挥着作用,局外人需要这些力量来促进他们的想法。特别是,我们的多层次视角同时考虑了个人推动这些想法的努力(微观层面),以及塑造他们认知的受众动态(中观层面)和外生力量(宏观层面)。香奈儿的历史案例分析也为我们提供了一个窗口,让我们了解在商业史上具有全球影响力的首批女性企业家之一,以及在当时男性主导的成熟领域建立自己的额外挑战。
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From the Margins to the Core of Haute Couture: The Entrepreneurial Journey of Coco Chanel
We trace the history of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s entrepreneurial journey as a fashion designer from her early years as an outsider (early 1900s) to her rise to success and consecration as an icon within the French haute couture field (early 1930s)—a field controlled by powerful insiders. Our study sheds light on the social forces and historical circumstances underlying an outsider’s journey from the margins of an established field to its core. Drawing on unique historical material, we develop a novel process view that highlights the shifting influence of forces operating at different levels in the accumulation, deployment, and conversion of various forms of capital (i.e., human, social, economic, and symbolic) that outsiders need to promote their ideas. In particular, our multilevel perspective accounts simultaneously for the individual’s efforts to push forward these ideas (micro-level), as well as the audience dynamics (meso-level) and exogenous forces (macro-level) that shape their recognition. Chanel’s historical case analysis also affords a window into one of the first female entrepreneurs with global impact in business history, with the added challenge of establishing herself in what at the time was a male-dominated and mature field.
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来源期刊
CiteScore
1.20
自引率
30.00%
发文量
37
期刊介绍: Enterprise & Society offers a forum for research on the historical relations between businesses and their larger political, cultural, institutional, social, and economic contexts. The journal aims to be truly international in scope. Studies focused on individual firms and industries and grounded in a broad historical framework are welcome, as are innovative applications of economic or management theories to business and its context.
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