Fresh, Fly, Fabulous: 50年的嘻哈风格

IF 0.2 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2023-07-03 DOI:10.1080/03612112.2023.2224076
Mary Farley
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Co-curated by Elizabeth Way, Associate Curator, and Elena Romero, Assistant Professor of Advertising and Marketing Communications, the exhibition Fresh, Fly, and Fabulous: 50 Years of Hip Hop Style addressed how hallmarks of aspiration, inventiveness, and individualization within hip hop style pushed sartorial boundaries and infused itself within mainstream culture. In an interview with the New York Times, Romero observed: “Fashion is the original sixth element of hip hop . . . . Aspirations become a reality through what we wear. From nameplates to chains, it’s a way of being seen, and wearing the right clothes is a way to announce yourself to the world.” Upon descending the staircase to the Museum at FIT’s main galleries, visitors encountered a large image of Kool K and DJ Lee Rock posed in front of a busy merchandise display (Figure 1). 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引用次数: 0

摘要

在过去的半个世纪里,嘻哈已经成为全球最具影响力的文化运动之一。它的起源可以追溯到1973年8月11日,辛迪和克莱夫·坎贝尔(又名DJ库尔·赫奇)在布朗克斯的公寓大楼里举办的传奇返校派对。从这个独特的事件开始,嘻哈成为一种全球现象,风格是其最重要和最持久的表现之一。FIT博物馆以Fresh, Fly, Fabulous: 50年的嘻哈风格为主题,展示了一场全面的回顾展,使用了来自50个出借人的150多件物品,审视了过去半个世纪嘻哈与时尚的关系。此次展览由副策展人Elizabeth Way和广告与营销传播助理教授Elena Romero共同策划,展示了Hip - Hop风格中渴望、创造力和个性化的标志如何推动了服装的界限,并将自己融入主流文化。在接受《纽约时报》采访时,罗梅罗说:“时尚是嘻哈最初的第六大元素. . . .愿望通过我们的穿着变成了现实。从名牌到连锁店,这是一种被看到的方式,穿着合适的衣服是向世界宣布自己的一种方式。”沿着楼梯走到FIT主展厅的博物馆,游客们看到了一张Kool K和DJ Lee Rock在一个繁忙的商品陈列前摆姿势的大图(图1)。在这张照片中,Kool K和Rock穿着典型的嘻哈风格早期的服装,搭配Lee牛仔裤,金色名牌珠宝,戴着报摊帽。乍一看,这张介绍性的照片似乎是通往过去纽约的视觉门户,但贾梅尔·沙巴兹(Jamel Shabazz)在2019年为牛仔品牌Lee的2019春夏活动拍摄了这张照片。这种将嘻哈美学起源和当下诠释之间的时间在视觉上扁平化的方式,为观众提供了一个强有力的切入点,强调了这种风格的服装寿命,以及它在纽约的根源。Fresh, Fly, and Fabulous被分成两个主要的画廊空间,并按主题而不是按时间顺序组织。较小的,前面1埃琳娜·罗梅罗和伊丽莎白·韦,“新鲜,飞,和神话:50年的嘻哈风格。”“https://www.fitnyc。edu/museum/exhibitions/hip-hopstyle.php。
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Fresh, Fly, and Fabulous: 50 Years of Hip Hop Style
Over the last half-century, hip hop has cemented itself as one of most influential cultural movements globally. Its origins can be traced to Cindy and Clive Campbell’s (aka DJ Kool Herc) legendary back-to-school party held on August 11, 1973, in their Bronx apartment building. From this singular event, hip hop became a global phenomenon with style being one of its most significant and enduring manifestations. With Fresh, Fly, and Fabulous: 50 Years of Hip Hop Style, The Museum at FIT presented a sweeping retrospective using over 150 objects sourced from fifty lenders that examined hip hop’s relationship with fashion over the last half-century. Co-curated by Elizabeth Way, Associate Curator, and Elena Romero, Assistant Professor of Advertising and Marketing Communications, the exhibition Fresh, Fly, and Fabulous: 50 Years of Hip Hop Style addressed how hallmarks of aspiration, inventiveness, and individualization within hip hop style pushed sartorial boundaries and infused itself within mainstream culture. In an interview with the New York Times, Romero observed: “Fashion is the original sixth element of hip hop . . . . Aspirations become a reality through what we wear. From nameplates to chains, it’s a way of being seen, and wearing the right clothes is a way to announce yourself to the world.” Upon descending the staircase to the Museum at FIT’s main galleries, visitors encountered a large image of Kool K and DJ Lee Rock posed in front of a busy merchandise display (Figure 1). In this photo, Kool K and Rock are wearing clothing typically associated with hip hop style’s earliest iterations with Lee jeans, gold name-plate jewelry, and newsboy caps. Upon first glance this introductory image seemed to be a visual portal to a bygone New York, but Jamel Shabazz photographed the image in 2019 for the denim brand Lee’s Spring/Summer 2019 campaign. This visual flattening of time between hip hop’s aesthetic origins and its current interpretations presented a strong entry point for viewers, emphasizing the style’s sartorial longevity as well as its roots in New York City. Fresh, Fly, and Fabulous was split between two primary gallery spaces and was organized thematically rather than chronologically. The smaller, front 1 Elena Romero and Elizabeth Way, “Fresh, Fly, and Fabulous: 50 Years of Hip Hop Style.” https://www.fitnyc. edu/museum/exhibitions/hip-hopstyle.php.
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期刊最新文献
Disseminating Dress: Britain’s Fashion Networks, 1600–1970Disseminating Dress: Britain’s Fashion Networks, 1600–1970Edited by Serena Dyer, Jade Halbert, and Sophie LittlewoodLondon: Bloomsbury, 2022 2023 Scholars’ Roundtable The “Perfect Dress” Refashioning: CFGNY and Wataru Tominaga Fresh, Fly, and Fabulous: 50 Years of Hip Hop Style
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