奇怪风格的男人:苏联斯蒂利亚吉的亚文化男子气概

IF 0.8 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2021-12-01 DOI:10.1386/csfb_00025_1
Alla Myzelev
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引用次数: 1

摘要

本文考察了从1948年出现到20世纪60年代初的亚文化苏联运动Stiliagi。自1917年共产主义革命以来,这场运动首次为男性创造了反文化时尚风格。我认为,这场运动和与之相关的生活方式通过引入一种对时尚和当代音乐感兴趣的城市男性,改变了苏联男性气质的表现。斯蒂利亚吉在当时的文学作品和回忆录以及讽刺媒体中都有代表性。这项研究利用这些来源以及作者进行的个人采访来展示这场运动的全方位。利用康奈尔关于霸权男子气概的概念,我将斯蒂利亚吉视为一种另类男子气概,并认为时尚风格和对这场运动的坚持被战略性地用来驾驭苏联意识形态现实的危险局面。
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Guys in a strange style: Subcultural masculinity of Soviet Stiliagi
This article examines the subcultural Soviet movement Stiliagi from its appearance in 1948 to the early 1960s. The movement created countercultural fashion styles for men for the first time since the Communist Revolution in 1917. I argue that the movement and the lifestyle that were associated with it contributed to a change in the representation of masculinity in the Soviet Union by introducing a type of urban man interested in fashion and contemporary music. Stiliagi is represented in literary works and memoirs, along with the satirical press of the time. This study uses these sources along with personal interviews conducted by the author to show the full range of the movement. Using Connell’s notion of hegemonic masculinity, I look at Stiliagi as a type of alternative masculinity and argue that the fashion style and adherence to the movement were used strategically to navigate the dangerous landscape of Soviet ideological reality.
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来源期刊
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-
CiteScore
0.70
自引率
75.00%
发文量
10
期刊最新文献
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