西班牙时装:在Cristóbal巴黎世家的阴影下

IF 0.7 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-01-02 DOI:10.1080/1362704X.2020.1770399
Sílvia Rosés Castellsaguer
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引用次数: 1

摘要

摘要Cristóbal Balenciaga目前在时尚领域享有历史上最伟大的国际设计师之一的地位,在西班牙备受赞誉。在风格上,他的灵感来源是明确可识别的,如传统西班牙服装的复兴,从宗教服装的明显灵感或艺术史的重要性,特别是西班牙巴洛克。然而,如果我们分析西班牙高级定制的主要服装品牌的贡献,我们会发现它们都或多或少地共享相同的集体风格想象。这一事实必然引导我们分析当时的西班牙背景——佛朗哥独裁统治——作为解释上述集体现象的决定性因素,并将这种现象与以巴黎世家为中心的个性化愿景区分开来。
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Spanish Couture: In the Shadow of Cristóbal Balenciaga
Abstract Cristóbal Balenciaga is currently enjoying a standing in the field of fashion as one of the greatest international designers in history and the most praised in the Spanish scene. Stylistically, his sources of inspiration are clearly identifiable, such as the revival of traditional Spanish clothing, a clear inspiration from religious clothing or the importance of the history of art, especially Spanish baroque. However, if we analyze the contribution of the key clothing brands in Spanish couture we discover that they all share, to one extent or another, that same collective stylistic imagination. This is a fact which leads us, necessarily, to analyze the Spanish context of the time—the Francoist Dictatorship—as a determining factor in explaining the aforementioned collective phenomenon and to distance that phenomenon from a personalized vision centered on Balenciaga.
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来源期刊
CiteScore
2.10
自引率
10.00%
发文量
41
期刊介绍: The importance of studying the body as a site for the deployment of discourses is well-established in a number of disciplines. By contrast, the study of fashion has, until recently, suffered from a lack of critical analysis. Increasingly, however, scholars have recognized the cultural significance of self-fashioning, including not only clothing but also such body alterations as tattooing and piercing. Fashion Theory takes as its starting point a definition of “fashion” as the cultural construction of the embodied identity. It provides an interdisciplinary forum for the rigorous analysis of cultural phenomena ranging from footbinding to fashion advertising.
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