车间的审美劳动和多样性:时尚零售业女工的经验

Lydia Olakumbi Oluyadi, Wenjin Dai
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引用次数: 1

摘要

目的探讨某时尚零售店不同种族的一线女工审美劳动的工作体验。设计/方法/方法本定性研究基于一项民族志研究,借鉴了参与者观察和对英国一家时尚零售商店一线员工的访谈结果。本文探讨了审美劳动的体现是如何通过时尚零售商店的管理纪律不断生产和商品化的。它挑战了在时尚零售业中将典型的白色作为美的标准的观念,并展示了不同种族的体现是如何不同的。虽然白人女性的外表一直受到人们的审视,但对有色人种女性的审美需求往往集中在语言和种族化的身体上,为顾客提供“真正的”异国情调体验。此外,本研究强调了审美劳动的动员如何造成工作羞辱和工作异化。尽管这项研究是基于对一家英国时装零售商的民族志研究,但本文试图通过探索种族多元化女工的生活经历,为一个代表性不足的群体发出声音。原创性/价值本文从体现的角度探讨了审美劳动与种族的交集,探讨了时尚零售业中不同种族的女工的工作经历,以及她们的各种形式的体现是如何被种族化和商品化的。
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Aesthetic labour and diversity on the shopfloor: the experiences of women workers in fashion retail
PurposeThis paper explores the workplace experiences of aesthetic labour among racially diverse frontline women workers in a fashion retail store.Design/methodology/approachThis qualitative study is based on an ethnographic study, drawing on findings from participant observation and interviews with frontline workers at a fashion retail store in the UK.FindingsThis paper explores how the embodiments of aesthetic labour are perpetually produced and commodified through the discipline of management in a fashion retail store. It challenges the notion of phenotypical Whiteness as the beauty standard within fashion retail and demonstrates how embodiments differ according to race. While White women are continuously scrutinised by their appearance, the aesthetic demands for women of colour tend to focus on speech and racialised bodies to provide “authentically” exotic experiences for customers. Additionally, this study highlights how the mobilisation of aesthetic labour can create work humiliation and work alienation.Research limitations/implicationsDespite this study being based on an ethnographic study at one British fashion retailer, this paper seeks to give voices to an underrepresented group by exploring the lived experiences of racially diverse women workers.Originality/valueThis paper contributes to the intersection between aesthetic labour and race from an embodiment perspective, exploring the workplace experiences of racially diverse women workers in fashion retail and how their various forms of embodiment are racialised and commodified.
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