化妆品用“四白”药材生物安全性及护肤功效评价

Ziwei TANG, Yan WANG, Xinyi XIE, Yongyan PEI, Limin ZHAO, Ping ZHAO
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摘要

目的验证“四白”提取物在化妆品中的抗氧化、美白和抗炎作用。方法采用中药“四白”(家蚕幼虫、蛇耳根、苍术根)提取物。用醇提法制备白芍。采用红细胞溶血试验和MTT评价提取物的安全性和刺激性。通过测定其清除羟基和DPPH自由基、还原铁离子和细胞抗氧化能力来确定提取物的抗氧化能力。通过对酪氨酸酶的抑制能力来确定其增白能力。通过测定其对RAW264.7细胞透明质酸酶和脂多糖(LPS)诱导的NO生成的抑制率来确定其抗炎能力。结果刺激性试验结果表明,“四白”提取物具有低刺激性和高生物安全性。能清除各种自由基,对氧化损伤有保护作用。酪氨酸酶抑制试验表明,提取物具有美白作用。在抗炎活性方面,它能在一定程度上抑制透明质酸酶的活性,减少lps刺激的细胞产生NO。结论“四白”提取物具有较高的生物安全性和抗氧化、美白、抗炎等护肤功效。
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Evaluation of biosafety and skin-care efficacy for “Four white” medicinal materials used in cosmetics

Objective

To verify the antioxidant, whitening and anti-inflammatory effects of “Four white” extracts in cosmetic applications.

Methods

The extracts of the Chinese herbal medicines “Four white” (Silkworm Larva, Japanese Ampelopsis root, Largehead Atractylodes rhizome. White peony root) were prepared by an alcoholic extraction method. The safety and irritation of the extracts were assessed by the erythrocyte hemolysis test and MTT. The antioxidant ability of the extracts was determined by measuring their capabilities to scavenge hydroxyl and DPPH radicals, reduce iron ions and cellular antioxidant assays. The whitening capability was determined by the ability of tyrosinase inhibition. Its anti-inflammatory capacity was determined by measuring the inhibiting rates against hyaluronidase and lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced NO production in RAW264.7 cells.

Results

The results of the irritation test showed that the “Four white” extract has low irritation and high biosafety. It can scavenge different free radicals and has protective effect against oxidative damage. The tyrosinase inhibition test showed that the extracts had whitening ability. In terms of anti-inflammatory activity, it can inhibit hyaluronidase activity to a certain extent and reduce the production of NO by LPS-stimulated cells.

Conclusion

“Four white” extract has high biosafety and skin-care efficiency such as antioxidant, whitening and anti-inflammatory properties.

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