Couture of the Corpse: Fashion, Class, Time, and the Undead in The Hunger

K. Tembo
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Abstract

When viewed from the lens of couture and class, the contemporary portrayal of the vampire as iconic in both sociopolitical and aesthetic spheres, and as icons of various subaltern, outsider, or what I call 'demimondeur' lifestyles, subcultures, and their attendant styles/fashions, offers an interesting analytical frame through which to examine the dialogic relationship between ideology, time, fashion, and class. Referring to Marxist thought concerning vampire capitalism and time, this chapter will discuss the issues and debates surrounding the portrayal of the figure of the vampire as what I will theorize to be a 'pure consumer', sociopolitical elite, and sociopolitical outsider, and its figuration of both the atemporality and spuriousness of ideology in The Hunger (1983). Using the Bauhaus post-punk couture or style of the undead in the film as an analytical frame, the methodology of this paper will be to perform a close reading of the film as a case study, focussing on its engagement with the sociopolitics, cultures, and phenomena of wealth, style, privilege, and time(lessnes).
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尸体的时装:《饥饿》中的时尚、阶级、时间和亡灵
从时装和阶级的角度来看,当代吸血鬼作为社会政治和美学领域的标志性人物,作为各种下层社会、局外人或我称之为“半人半兽”的生活方式、亚文化及其伴随的风格/时尚的象征,提供了一个有趣的分析框架,通过它来研究意识形态、时间、时尚和阶级之间的对话关系。参考马克思主义关于吸血鬼资本主义和时间的思想,本章将讨论围绕吸血鬼形象的刻画的问题和争论,我将把吸血鬼形象理论化为“纯粹的消费者”、社会政治精英和社会政治局外人,以及它对《饥饿》(1983)中意识形态的非时代性和虚假性的塑造。使用包豪斯后朋克时装或电影中亡灵的风格作为分析框架,本文的方法将是对电影进行仔细阅读作为案例研究,重点关注其与社会政治,文化和财富,风格,特权和时间(lessnes)现象的接触。
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