Fashioning female feet at the turn of the twentieth century: US Cinderellas, Chinese alterity or global beauty?

Abstract

Scholars have only paid limited attention to petite feet as a US fashion and as a cross-cultural beauty ideal. Framed as a visual metaphor of Chinese alterity, traditionalism and patriarchal oppression, footbinding served as a crucial terrain in which the USA asserted its supremacy through a racialised discourse of difference at the turn of the twentieth century. Through a comparative lens, this article spotlights powerful details about shared ideologies of women's bodies in the USA and China. By tracing how women's feet were discussed in newspaper and magazine coverage of US small foot fashion and foot contests, and locating these narratives in a global context, it uncovers the ways in which the discourse of modernity, ideology of white superiority and imperialism naturalised Western women's foot beauty norm as an aesthetic ideal, which obscured the convergences of feminine beauty standards in different parts of the world. Ironically, this racialised global hierarchy of beauty under the guise of modernity tapped into a traditional form of femininity and upset efforts to reflect on the limits of white women's agency both in a traditional patriarchal culture and in a modernising US society, which ultimately constrained possibilities of local and global transformations.