Medieval bling: the display of jewellery on women's funerary monuments from England in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries

Pam Walker
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Abstract

This article suggests that more detailed analysis must be done when using artistic sources, in particular, funerary monuments, as evidence for medieval dress. Using archaeological, documentary, and literary evidence for jewellery in England in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, it asks why what seems to be a popular accessory was very rarely depicted on sculpted effigies and monumental brasses. Assumptions from just the visual evidence would conclude that brooches in particular were not a common piece of jewellery for noble women, but this does not correspond with the material evidence. The focus of this article, therefore, is on using an interdisciplinary approach to look at monuments as a source in their own right rather than as just a general mirror of contemporary fashion. By looking at three case studies, the article shows that deeper analysis of specific monuments can put them into religious, political, and historical context and provide information about the women depicted on them and the significance of accessories, such as brooches.   On cover:Late Roman wall, the portion immediately south of the West Gate (Porta Oea) with re-used blocks from first-century mausolea (Drawing by Francesca Bigi) and Tombstone of Regina from South Shields (Arbeia) (Tyne and WearArchives and Museums/ Bridgeman Images). E-ISSN (online version) 2611-3686 ISSN (print version) 0065-0900
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中世纪珠宝:14世纪和15世纪英国女性葬礼纪念碑上的珠宝展示
这篇文章表明,在使用艺术来源,特别是丧葬纪念碑作为中世纪服装的证据时,必须进行更详细的分析。通过对14世纪和15世纪英国珠宝的考古、文献和文学证据的研究,作者提出了一个问题,为什么这种看似流行的配饰很少被描绘在雕刻的肖像和不朽的黄铜上。仅凭视觉证据就可以得出结论,胸针不是贵族女性常见的首饰,但这与物质证据不符。因此,本文的重点是使用跨学科的方法,将纪念碑视为其本身的来源,而不仅仅是当代时尚的一般镜子。通过三个案例研究,本文表明,对特定纪念碑进行更深入的分析可以将它们置于宗教、政治和历史背景中,并提供有关雕像上描绘的女性以及胸针等配饰的重要性的信息。封面:罗马晚期的城墙,西门(Porta Oea)以南的部分,有一世纪陵墓的再利用块(弗朗西斯卡·比吉绘制)和南希尔兹(Arbeia)的里贾纳墓碑(泰恩和威尔档案馆和博物馆/布里奇曼图像)。E-ISSN(网络版)2611-3686ISSN(印刷版)0065-0900
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