Sensory identity of wine from the ancient and almost forgotten grape variety Timorasso

Abstract

Over the last few decades, there has been a gradual decrease in natural biodiversity, which is leading to the standardisation of wine products. Minor grape varieties possess key traits for producing wines with a specific territorial identity and they contribute to increasing biodiversity. Timorasso is an ancient Italian white grape variety native to the province of Alessandria in the Piedmont region. It fell into oblivion for a period of time due to the advent of phylloxera at the end of the 1800s and the abandonment of rural areas, which almost led to the extinction of this grapevine. This study aimed to identify the sensory properties that characterise Timorasso wine from different producers and production areas and to investigate the diversity of the sensory space. Sixteen Timorasso wines from the 2018 vintage and were evaluated for sensory description by a panel of nine semi-trained judges using the RATA method. The Timorasso wine was found to have a complex aromatic profile spanning fruity (citrus, tropical fruits, tree-fruit and dried/baked fruit), floral, vegetative, balsamic, honey and fuel/petroleum. The multiple factor analysis clearly differentiated wines with fruity notes from those with balsamic, vegetative and fuel/petroleum aromas. The hierarchical cluster analysis evidenced three main clusters. Cluster 1 comprised wines with pale-yellow colour and fruity-related aromas, low sourness, body and alcohol sensations. Cluster 2 comprised wines with dark yellow colour, low sourness, and high intensities of raisin and fuel aromas, probably due to specific oenological practices, such as grape maceration. Cluster 3 comprised wines with high sourness and vegetative odour. The results provide for the first time a sensory map of a grapevine that was almost forgotten until a few decades ago, but which is now considered to be among the most promising white wines on the Italian market.