A Study of Silk Fabric from the Xiongnu Age Under-Headdress Discovered at Yaloman II Mound 51 in the Central Altai

Abstract

We describe a large fragment of fabric from the under-headdress excavated from mound 51 at Yaloman II—a site on a high terrace near the place where the Bolshoy Yaloman fl ows into the Katun, Central Altai. Various criteria, including radiocarbon analysis, suggest that the burial dates to the Xiongnu Age (200 BC to 100 AD). The structure of the textile was assessed microscopically. On the basis of morphological criteria, the fi bers were identifi ed as silk. The fabric is described according to the accepted international standards. Results attest to the use of a treadle loom for producing polychrome silk fabric, from which the early nomads sewed a headdress in the form of a cap or bonnet. Such a prestigious material was produced in limited quantities in China to decorate details of clothing worn by the elite. Decorative silk items could have been imported from there to the Altai as gifts received by the leader of the nomadic Xiongnu Empire in Inner Asia. The Altai was part of this empire, as demonstrated by the entire assemblage of funerary items from Yaloman II.