A study of anti-wrinkle functions and improvement of cream with Phaseolus angularis

IF 2.7 4区 医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2023-12-11 DOI:10.1111/ics.12932
Sarang Oh, Jeehaeng Jeong, Myeongju Kim, Xiangji Jin, Shengdao Zheng, Yong-Min Kim, Tae-Hoo Yi
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Abstract

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from sunlight accelerates skin ageing, which is followed by harsh, thick, dry and loose conditions. One of the most demonstrative symptoms is deep wrinkles induced by skin barrier disruption. Our previous research showed that Phaseolus angularis seed extract (PASE) effectively inhibits skin ageing through UVB protection in HaCaT cells by suppressing skin damage. However, its efficacy has not been evaluated in clinical trials so far. PASE cream's effectiveness was initially tested on the artificial skin model, revealing an increase in filaggrin and defence against skin damage. Based on these results, in this single-centred, randomized, double-blind study, we investigated the anti-ageing effect of PASE in human eye wrinkle areas. For these 21 healthy adult women aged 30 to 59, a PASE cream was applied to the right eye wrinkle area and a placebo to the left eye wrinkle area twice a day (morning and evening) for 12 weeks. The change in thick, deep crease wrinkles around the eyes was confirmed by visual evaluation, skin measurements and a questionnaire. As a result, the surface roughness (R1), maximum roughness (R2), average roughness (R3), smoothness depth (R4) and arithmetic mean roughness (R5) values in the group using the PASE cream all decreased. Particularly, R1, R4 and R5 significantly decreased by 18.1%, 18.6% and 25.0%, respectively. Subjects who applied PASE cream also experienced an improvement in skin moisture nearly twice the time compared to the placebo group. In addition, no participants reported side effects. Our study showed that PASE cream led to clinically significant levels of wrinkle improvement. In conclusion, as PASE is a natural, safe food with no side effects, it can be a good resource for natural anti-wrinkle functional cosmetics in the future.

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抗皱功能研究及角叉菜面霜的改善作用
长期暴露在阳光的紫外线辐射下会加速皮肤老化,随之而来的是皮肤粗糙、厚实、干燥和松弛。最明显的症状之一是皮肤屏障破坏引起的深皱纹。我们前期的研究表明,Phaseolus angularis种子提取物(PASE)通过UVB保护HaCaT细胞,抑制皮肤损伤,有效抑制皮肤老化。然而,其疗效至今尚未在临床试验中得到评价。PASE面霜的有效性最初在人造皮肤模型上进行了测试,结果显示聚丝蛋白和防御皮肤损伤的能力有所增加。基于这些结果,在这项单中心、随机、双盲研究中,我们研究了PASE在人眼皱纹区域的抗衰老作用。对于这21名年龄在30至59岁之间的健康成年女性,每天两次(早晚)将PASE霜涂抹在右眼皱纹区域,将安慰剂涂抹在左眼皱纹区域,持续12周。通过视觉评估、皮肤测量和问卷调查证实了眼睛周围厚而深的皱纹的变化。结果,使用PASE乳膏组的表面粗糙度(R1)、最大粗糙度(R2)、平均粗糙度(R3)、光滑深度(R4)和算术平均粗糙度(R5)值均降低。其中R1、R4和R5分别显著下降18.1%、18.6%和25.0%。与安慰剂组相比,使用PASE面霜的受试者皮肤水分改善的时间几乎是对照组的两倍。此外,没有参与者报告副作用。我们的研究表明,PASE面霜可显著改善皱纹。综上所述,PASE是一种天然、安全、无副作用的食品,可以成为未来天然抗皱功能化妆品的良好资源。
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来源期刊
CiteScore
4.60
自引率
4.30%
发文量
73
期刊介绍: The Journal publishes original refereed papers, review papers and correspondence in the fields of cosmetic research. It is read by practising cosmetic scientists and dermatologists, as well as specialists in more diverse disciplines that are developing new products which contact the skin, hair, nails or mucous membranes. The aim of the Journal is to present current scientific research, both pure and applied, in: cosmetics, toiletries, perfumery and allied fields. Areas that are of particular interest include: studies in skin physiology and interactions with cosmetic ingredients, innovation in claim substantiation methods (in silico, in vitro, ex vivo, in vivo), human and in vitro safety testing of cosmetic ingredients and products, physical chemistry and technology of emulsion and dispersed systems, theory and application of surfactants, new developments in olfactive research, aerosol technology and selected aspects of analytical chemistry.
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