Comparative analysis of essential oil oleogels containing beeswax and sunflower wax with petrolatum gels

Abstract

In this study, three different oil (black seed, St. John's Wort, and grape seed oils [GSO]) oleogels, which are especially used in complementary medicine, were produced with natural waxes (sunflower and beeswax [BW]). The physicochemical, textural, thermal, and structural features and volatile composition of the oleogels were determined and compared with commercial petrolatum gels (control sample). The sunflower and BW gels had a higher melting point than the petrolatum gels. Particularly, the firmness values of the fresh sunflower and BW oleogels were close to the petrolatum gels, except for the BW-based St John's Wort and GSO gels. The firmness and stickiness values of the oleogels and the control samples increased in relation to the storage period. The increase in firmness value was less in the sunflower wax than in the BW and control samples. All sunflower, BW and petrolatum gels exhibited the β′ form. Volatile component data showed that different waxes have different volatile adsorption capacities. As a result, natural wax oleogels produced with various essential oils could be an alternative to similar products used in the cosmetics, pharmacology, and food supplement industries, which are already commercially available.

Practical applications: (Oleogels have become a popular technique for structuring oils in recent years. In this way, oleogels are considered an alternative to solid fat such as margarine, butter, and shortening and an oil-restricting agent against oil leakage in oil-based foods. Consumers establish a close relationship between their own health and the foods they consume and the cosmetics they use. This situation has led to an increasing interest in natural products. Essential oils (EOs) are used in many fields, ranging from cosmetics to complementary medicine. In this context, essential oleogels produced with natural waxes were compared with the commercial products, revealing their potential for use in both cosmetic and food supplements. EO-oleogels represent a new approach to the oleogel product range with high commercialization potential for related industries.)