Examining The Temporal Behavior of Swash and Backwash Waves on Shorelines of Some Selected Settlements in Bayelsa State, Nigeria

E. Odubo, Eniye Mienye
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Abstract

: This research is aimed at examining the temporal behavior of swash and backwash on shorelines in some selected settlements in Bayelsa State in order to promote a better understanding of the causes and impact of shoreline changes on settlements along the coast. To achieve this aim therefore, the study examined the shorelines of three settlements, Agge, Koluama2 and Okpoama situated along the coastline with respect to determining the impact of the temporal behavior of swash and backwash waves on on the shore. The study utilized the instrument of stop watch to carry out in-situ measurements of wave break rate at the shore. Furthermore, Pearson correlation was used to test whether the temporal behavior of backwash is significantly related to shoreline changes in the study area. The results show that erosion is the dominant event in all the three settlements. The result further revealed a progressive increase of wave break rate from the month of April to July and becomes regressive from the month of August to December. This high rate of wave breaks in the month of April to August is as a result of the influence of the tropical maritime air mass which occurs within the period of June and July. The study also reveal that the occurrences or factors that contributes to coastal erosion in the different settlements might be the same or similar. The study recommended amongst others the execution of coastal zone management for the region.
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研究尼日利亚巴耶尔萨州一些选定定居点海岸线上的斜波和反冲波的时间行为
:本研究旨在考察巴耶尔萨州一些选定居民点海岸线上的沼泽和倒灌的时间行为,以便更好地了解海岸线变化的原因及其对沿岸居民点的影响。因此,为了实现这一目标,本研究考察了位于海岸线上的 Agge、Koluama2 和 Okpoama 三个定居点的海岸线,以确定斜波和倒灌波的时间行为对海岸的影响。研究利用秒表对海岸的破浪率进行了现场测量。此外,研究还使用了皮尔逊相关性来检验反冲的时间行为是否与研究区域的海岸线变化有显著关系。结果显示,侵蚀是所有三个定居点的主要事件。结果进一步显示,从 4 月到 7 月,波浪破碎率逐渐增加,从 8 月到 12 月,波浪破碎率逐渐减少。4 月至 8 月的高破浪率是受 6 月和 7 月期间出现的热带海洋气团影响的结果。研究还显示,导致不同居住区海岸侵蚀的现象或因素可能相同或相似。除其他外,研究还建议对该地区实施海岸带管理。
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