Controlling the formation of ionic complex vesicles through double-tailed surfactants

IF 2.7 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2024-05-27 DOI:10.1111/ics.12973

Makoto Uyama, Tetsuya Hama

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引用次数: 0

Abstract

Objective

Liposomes are often used in cosmetics since they are naturally derived and have excellent texture enhancing capabilities. However, when preparing them by using phospholipids with unsaturated acyl groups, they easily suffer from oxidative degradation. Accordingly, hydrogenated phospholipids are preferred, however, it is difficult to prepare stable liposomes due to its high gel-liquid crystalline phase transition temperature. On the other hand, although dialkyl dimethyl ammonium type cationic surfactants are widely known to form vesicles, they have rarely been used for skincare products except for water-in-oil type emulsion creams stabilized by organically modified clay minerals. We decided to overcome all of the problems above through ionic complex vesicles formed by double-tailed cationic and anionic surfactants.

Methods

Distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (DSAC) and sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine (DLGL) were selected as cationic and anionic surfactants, respectively. Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and small- and wide-angle X-ray scattering (SWAXS) measurements were performed to confirm the DSAC/DLGL/water ternary phase diagram. Newly developed ionic complex vesicle formation was confirmed by cryogenic transmission electron microscopy (cryo-TEM). The adsorbed cosmetic film structure on the skin in vivo was evaluated through the polarized infrared external reflection (PIR-ER). Finally, a cosmetic lotion formula was developed and the vesicle size was determined by dynamic light scattering (DLS).

Results

DSC and SWAXS data indicated that stable vesicles could be obtained at a molar ratio of DLGL to DSAC = 6:4. At this molar ratio, multi lamellar vesicles with diameters less than 100 nm were observed through cryo-TEM. PIR-ER data revealed that the developed vesicles formed a highly perpendicular orientation to the human skin surface. We have succeeded in formulating a cosmetic lotion containing developed vesicles with a mean diameter of 63.2 nm, which was stable over 1 month at 0, 37, and 50°C.

Conclusions

Our newly developed vesicles can be easily obtained through a coagulation process. Also, the adsorbed film structure supported by PIR-ER experiments implies that the developed lotion has an excellent texture that is the same as cosmetic lotions containing liposomes. Therefore, it's possible that this ionic complex vesicle could take the place of liposomes.

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通过双尾表面活性剂控制离子复合囊泡的形成。

目的：脂质体是天然提取的物质，具有出色的质感增强功能，因此经常被用于化妆品中。然而，在使用带有不饱和酰基的磷脂制备脂质体时，它们很容易发生氧化降解。因此，氢化磷脂是首选，但由于其凝胶-液晶相变温度较高，很难制备出稳定的脂质体。另一方面，虽然众所周知二烷基二甲基铵型阳离子表面活性剂可形成囊泡，但除了用于由有机改性粘土矿物稳定的油包水型乳霜外，很少用于护肤品。我们决定通过双尾阳离子和阴离子表面活性剂形成的离子复合囊泡来克服上述所有问题：方法：选择二硬脂基二甲基氯化铵（DSAC）和二月桂酰胺基赖氨酸钠（DLGL）分别作为阳离子和阴离子表面活性剂。通过差示扫描量热法（DSC）和小角及广角 X 射线散射法（SWAXS）测量，确认了 DSAC/DLGL/ 水三元相图。低温透射电子显微镜（cryo-TEM）证实了新形成的离子复合物囊泡。通过偏振红外外部反射（PIR-ER）评估了体内皮肤上吸附的化妆品膜结构。最后，开发了一种化妆品乳液配方，并通过动态光散射（DLS）测定了囊泡的大小：DSC 和 SWAXS 数据表明，当 DLGL 与 DSAC 的摩尔比为 6:4 时，可获得稳定的囊泡。在此摩尔比下，通过冷冻电镜观察到直径小于 100 纳米的多层囊泡。PIR-ER 数据显示，形成的囊泡与人体皮肤表面高度垂直。我们成功配制出了一种含有已发育囊泡的化妆品乳液，其平均直径为 63.2 纳米，在 0、37 和 50°C 温度条件下可稳定使用 1 个月：结论：我们新开发的囊泡可通过凝固过程轻松获得。此外，PIR-ER 实验支持的吸附膜结构表明，所开发的乳液质地优良，与含有脂质体的化妆品乳液质地相同。因此，这种离子复合囊泡有可能取代脂质体。

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来源期刊

International Journal of Cosmetic Science DERMATOLOGY-

CiteScore

4.60

自引率

4.30%

发文量

期刊介绍： The Journal publishes original refereed papers, review papers and correspondence in the fields of cosmetic research. It is read by practising cosmetic scientists and dermatologists, as well as specialists in more diverse disciplines that are developing new products which contact the skin, hair, nails or mucous membranes. The aim of the Journal is to present current scientific research, both pure and applied, in: cosmetics, toiletries, perfumery and allied fields. Areas that are of particular interest include: studies in skin physiology and interactions with cosmetic ingredients, innovation in claim substantiation methods (in silico, in vitro, ex vivo, in vivo), human and in vitro safety testing of cosmetic ingredients and products, physical chemistry and technology of emulsion and dispersed systems, theory and application of surfactants, new developments in olfactive research, aerosol technology and selected aspects of analytical chemistry.