Penetration of oils into hair

IF 2.7 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2024-06-24 DOI:10.1111/ics.12978

Jennifer M. Marsh, Shane Whitaker, Tim Felts, Chris Cowans, Shikhar Gupta, Srdan Masirevic, Rui Fang, Monique S. J. Simmonds, Gu Chen, Haibo Jiang

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引用次数: 0

Abstract

Objective

The objective of this work was to understand how triglyceride plant oils can deliver strength and softness benefits to hair by their penetration. These plant oils are complex mixtures of TAGs, so the initial studies performed were with pure TAGs and then these data compared to plant oils and their measured TAG compositions.

Methods

LC–MS was used to identify the di and triglycerides in coconut oil, Camellia oleifera oil and safflower seed oil. Penetration of these plant oils and pure individual triglycerides was measured by a differential extraction method. Cross-sections of oils treated with ¹³C-labelled triolein were studied by NanoSIMS to visualize location of triglyceride inside hair. Fatigue strength was measured using constant stress to generate a survival distribution. Models of the lipid-rich cell membrane complex (CMC) were created with the equimolar ratio of 18-methyl-eicosanoic acid (MEAS), palmitic acid (C16:0) and oleic acid (C18:1).

Results

Penetration of the individual pure TAGs was confirmed for all chain lengths and degree of unsaturation tested with higher penetration for shorter chain lengths and unsaturated fatty acids. Detailed compositional analysis of selected plant oils showed a wide variety of TAGs and penetration was also demonstrated for these oils. NanoSIMS and modelling confirmed these TAGs are penetrating the lipid-rich CMC of hair and are interacting with the fatty acids that make up the CMC. All plant oils delivered a fatigue strength improvement by penetration into the CMC and it is proposed that these oils prevent formation and/or propagation of flaws in the CMC network that leads to breakage.

Conclusions

Many plant oils with a wide range of triglyceride compositions can penetrate into hair and NanoSIMS data confirmed these oils partition into the lipid-rich cell membrane complex. Penetration studies of individual TAGs shown to be present in these oils confirmed TAGs of varying chain length can penetrate and there is a correlation between increased penetration efficacy and shorter chain lengths and presence of unsaturation in the fatty acid chains. All the oils studied delivered single fibre fatigue strength benefits.

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将油渗入头发

目的：这项工作的目的是了解甘油三酯植物油如何通过渗透为头发带来强韧和柔软的功效。这些植物油是复杂的 TAG 混合物，因此最初的研究使用的是纯 TAG，然后将这些数据与植物油及其测得的 TAG 成分进行比较：方法：使用 LC-MS 鉴别椰子油、油茶籽油和红花籽油中的二甘油酯和三甘油酯。采用差分萃取法测定了这些植物油和纯甘油三酯的渗透性。用纳米吸附显微镜研究了用 13C 标记的三油酸甘油酯处理过的油的横截面，以观察甘油三酯在毛发中的位置。使用恒定应力测量疲劳强度，以生成存活分布。用等摩尔比的 18-甲基二十酸（MEAS）、棕榈酸（C16:0）和油酸（C18:1）创建了富脂细胞膜复合体（CMC）模型：在所有测试的链长和不饱和程度下，单个纯 TAG 的渗透性都得到了证实，链长较短和不饱和脂肪酸的渗透性更高。对所选植物油的详细成分分析表明，这些植物油中含有多种 TAG，也证明了这些 TAG 的渗透性。纳米微观显微镜（NanoSIMS）和建模证实，这些 TAG 正在渗透头发富含脂质的 CMC，并与构成 CMC 的脂肪酸相互作用。所有植物油都能通过渗透到 CMC 中提高疲劳强度，因此建议使用这些植物油来防止 CMC 网络中导致断裂的缺陷的形成和/或传播：结论：许多甘油三酯组成范围广泛的植物油都能渗透到头发中，纳米吸附显微镜（NanoSIMS）数据证实了这些植物油能分配到富含脂质的细胞膜复合体中。对这些油中存在的单个甘油三酯进行的渗透研究证实，不同链长的甘油三酯均可渗透，而且渗透效果的提高与较短的链长和脂肪酸链中存在不饱和脂肪酸有关。所研究的所有油类都具有单纤维疲劳强度优势。

本文章由计算机程序翻译，如有差异，请以英文原文为准。

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来源期刊

International Journal of Cosmetic Science DERMATOLOGY-

CiteScore

4.60

自引率

4.30%

发文量

期刊介绍： The Journal publishes original refereed papers, review papers and correspondence in the fields of cosmetic research. It is read by practising cosmetic scientists and dermatologists, as well as specialists in more diverse disciplines that are developing new products which contact the skin, hair, nails or mucous membranes. The aim of the Journal is to present current scientific research, both pure and applied, in: cosmetics, toiletries, perfumery and allied fields. Areas that are of particular interest include: studies in skin physiology and interactions with cosmetic ingredients, innovation in claim substantiation methods (in silico, in vitro, ex vivo, in vivo), human and in vitro safety testing of cosmetic ingredients and products, physical chemistry and technology of emulsion and dispersed systems, theory and application of surfactants, new developments in olfactive research, aerosol technology and selected aspects of analytical chemistry.