Development of Specific Motor Skills through System Wall Bouldering Training: A Pilot Study.

IF 1.2 Q3 SPORT SCIENCES Translational sports medicine Pub Date : 2024-07-08 eCollection Date: 2024-01-01 DOI:10.1155/2024/5584962
Nicolay Stien, Kaja Langer, Vidar Andersen, Gunn Helene Engelsrud, Elias Olsen, Atle Hole Saeterbakken
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Abstract

This study evaluated the effects of a five-week period of practicing specific climbing movements using a system wall on motor skills and bouldering performance compared to self-regulated, conventional bouldering. Thirteen advanced female boulderers (age: 24.5 ± 3.6 years, height: 166.9 ± 3.4 cm, and body mass: 63.4 ± 8.0 kg) were divided into an experimental group (n = 7) and a control group (n = 6). Both groups continued their normal training routines during the intervention, but the experimental group dedicated 30 minutes of their climbing time twice per week to practicing specific motor skills on a system climbing wall. Before and after the intervention, the participants attempted two boulder problems on the same wall. The performance was registered as the number of attempts to complete the boulder problems and as the highest hold reached within four attempts. Video recordings of climbers' best attempts, capturing the highest hold reached from a perspective directly behind them, were analyzed by three independent experts. The analysis was conducted using a five-point scale across six categories of movement quality. Modest enhancements in certain motor skills and performance were evident in both groups, revealing no significant distinction between them. The results underscore the efficacy of incorporating system walls into the training routines of advanced female boulder climbers, but the absence of between-group differences highlights the significance of individual preferences when choosing between conventional and system wall bouldering.

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通过系统墙抱石训练发展特定运动技能:试点研究
本研究评估了使用系统墙进行为期五周的特定攀岩动作练习与自我调节的传统攀岩相比,对运动技能和攀岩成绩的影响。13 名高级女性抱石运动员(年龄:24.5 ± 3.6 岁,身高:166.9 ± 3.4 厘米,体重:63.4 ± 8.0 千克)被分为实验组(n = 7)和对照组(n = 6)。在干预期间,两组都继续进行正常的训练,但实验组每周两次抽出 30 分钟的攀岩时间,在系统攀岩墙上练习特定的运动技能。在干预之前和之后,参与者在同一面墙上尝试了两个巨石问题。成绩以尝试完成巨石问题的次数和在四次尝试中达到的最高支撑点来记录。三名独立专家对攀岩者最佳尝试的视频记录进行了分析,视频记录了攀岩者从正后方的角度达到的最高支撑点。分析采用五级评分法,涵盖六类动作质量。结果表明,两组攀岩者的某些运动技能和表现都得到了适度提高,但并无明显差异。结果表明,将系统岩壁纳入高级女性巨石攀岩者的日常训练中是有效的,但组间差异的缺失凸显了在选择传统岩壁攀岩还是系统岩壁攀岩时个人偏好的重要性。
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