Natural fermentation of fresh Jasmine flowers inspired the development of a biotechnological ingredient with global anti-ageing properties

IF 2.7 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2024-07-25 DOI:10.1111/ics.12992

L. Bergeron, M. Brulas, L. Mouret, A. Seassau, M. Magliano, E. Oger, I. Imbert

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Abstract

Objective

This study focused on the development of a new-to-world ingredient harnessing the natural potential of fresh Jasminum grandiflorum flowers to self-ferment by its phytobiome revealing flower content. Analytical investigations were conducted to highlight specific phytocompounds generated during the natural fermentation of flowers in comparison to a conventional extraction. The synergy with another extraction technology maximized the generation of biocompounds for an interesting efficacy.

Methods

Jasmine extract was elaborated by combining two patented technologies: the phytofermentology™, inspired by plant–microorganisms interaction and designed to develop ingredients obtained by natural fermentation of the vegetal using its own phytobiota; and the PSR™ technology allowing the extraction of bioactive phytocompounds such as small RNAs from plants.

Results

Analytical investigations of Jasmine extract highlighted uniqueness and richness of the phytocompound profiles, such as organics acids and phenolic compounds, markers of fermentation only obtained after phytofermentology in comparison to conventional extraction. Jasmine extract has the particularity to contain jasmintides, flower small peptides belonging to the family of cysteine-rich peptides (CRPs). Antioxidant and global anti-ageing properties were investigated in cell-free assays demonstrating interesting results: about 20% scavenging of free radicals from 0.5% of Jasmine extract and protection from DNA damage of 26% in comparison to a stressed control.

Conclusion

Phytofermentology™ technology combined with PSR™ technology, meant to be respectful of the environment, allowed to development of biofunctionals very close to nature with a unique analytical signature as Jasmine extract, using the potential of fresh flowers phytobiota to self-ferment. The efficacy of the ingredient on global antioxidation and anti-ageing via hyaluronidase/tyrosinase inhibitions was highlighted by cell-free evaluation assays. Further and complementary studies should be conducted to confirm the bioefficacy of this ingredient with in vitro / ex vivo assays.

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新鲜茉莉花的自然发酵过程激发了一种具有全球抗衰老特性的生物技术成分的开发灵感。

研究目的本研究的重点是利用新鲜大叶茉莉花的天然潜力，通过其植物生物组揭示花的成分，开发一种新的世界级配料。与传统萃取法相比，分析研究突出了鲜花自然发酵过程中产生的特定植物化合物。与另一种萃取技术的协同作用最大限度地提高了生物化合物的生成，从而产生了有趣的功效：茉莉花萃取物是结合了两项专利技术：植物发酵技术（phytofermentology™），其灵感来源于植物与微生物之间的相互作用，旨在利用植物自身的植物生物群，开发通过植物自然发酵获得的成分；PSR™ 技术，允许从植物中萃取生物活性植物化合物，如小 RNA：对茉莉花提取物的分析研究凸显了植物化合物特征的独特性和丰富性，如有机酸和酚类化合物，与传统提取方法相比，只有通过植物发酵法才能获得这些发酵标志物。茉莉花提取物含有茉莉甙，这是一种属于富半胱氨酸肽（CRPs）家族的花小肽。在无细胞试验中研究了茉莉花提取物的抗氧化和全面抗衰老特性，结果令人感兴趣：与受压对照组相比，0.5%的茉莉花提取物可清除约20%的自由基，保护DNA免受26%的损伤：Phytofermentology™ 技术与旨在保护环境的 PSR™ 技术相结合，利用鲜花植物生物群自我发酵的潜力，开发出了非常接近自然的生物功能产品，如茉莉提取物，具有独特的分析特征。通过无细胞评估测定，该成分通过抑制透明质酸酶/酪氨酸酶，在全面抗氧化和抗衰老方面具有突出功效。应开展进一步的补充研究，通过体外/体内试验确认该成分的生物功效。

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来源期刊

International Journal of Cosmetic Science DERMATOLOGY-

CiteScore

4.60

自引率

4.30%

发文量

期刊介绍： The Journal publishes original refereed papers, review papers and correspondence in the fields of cosmetic research. It is read by practising cosmetic scientists and dermatologists, as well as specialists in more diverse disciplines that are developing new products which contact the skin, hair, nails or mucous membranes. The aim of the Journal is to present current scientific research, both pure and applied, in: cosmetics, toiletries, perfumery and allied fields. Areas that are of particular interest include: studies in skin physiology and interactions with cosmetic ingredients, innovation in claim substantiation methods (in silico, in vitro, ex vivo, in vivo), human and in vitro safety testing of cosmetic ingredients and products, physical chemistry and technology of emulsion and dispersed systems, theory and application of surfactants, new developments in olfactive research, aerosol technology and selected aspects of analytical chemistry.