Fermented tea leave extract against oxidative stress and ageing of skin in vitro and in vivo.

IF 2.7 4区 医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2024-08-09 DOI:10.1111/ics.12976
Gai-Xiang Wang, Wei-Cheng Fei, Lei-Lei Zhi, Xue-Dong Bai, Bing You
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Abstract

Objective: The objective is to develop a natural and stable anti-oxidative stress and anti-ageing ingredient. In this study, we evaluated the changes in white tea leaves fermented with Eurotium cristatum PLT-PE and Saccharomyces boulardii PLT-HZ and their efficacy against skin oxidative stress.

Methods: We employed untargeted metabolomics technology to analyse the differential metabolites between tea extract (TE) and fermented tea extract (FTE). In vitro, using H2O2-induced HaCaT cells, we evaluated cell vitality, ROS, and inflammatory factors (TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6). Additionally, we verified the effects on the extracellular matrix and nuclear DNA using fibroblasts or reconstructed skin models. We measured skin hydration, elasticity, wrinkle area, wrinkle area ratio, erythema area, and erythema area ratio in volunteers after using an emulsion containing 3% FTE for 28 and 56 days.

Results: Targeted metabolomics analysis of white tea leaves yielded more than 20 differential metabolites with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, including amino acids, polypeptides, quercetin, and liquiritin post-fermentation. FTE, compared to TE, can significantly reduce reactive oxygen species (ROS) and protect against oxidative stress-induced skin damage in H2O2-induced HaCaT cells. FTE can inhibit H2O2-induced collagen degradation by suppressing the MAPK/c-Jun signalling pathway and can also mitigate the reactive oxygen species damage to nuclear DNA. Clinical studies showed that the volunteers' stratum corneum water content, skin elasticity, wrinkle area, wrinkle area ratio, erythema area, and erythema area ratio significantly improved from the baseline after 28 and 56 days of FTE use.

Conclusion: This study contributes to the growing body of literature supporting the protective effects against skin oxidative stress and ageing from fermented plant extracts. Moreover, our findings might inspire multidisciplinary efforts to investigate new fermentation techniques that could produce even more potent anti-ageing solutions.

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发酵茶叶提取物在体外和体内对抗氧化应激和皮肤老化。
目标:目的是开发一种天然、稳定的抗氧化和抗衰老成分。在这项研究中,我们评估了用板蓝根酵母菌(Eurotium cristatum PLT-PE)和布拉氏酵母菌(Saccharomyces boulardii PLT-HZ)发酵的白茶叶的变化及其对皮肤氧化应激的功效:我们采用非靶向代谢组学技术分析了茶叶提取物(TE)和发酵茶叶提取物(FTE)的不同代谢物。在体外,我们使用 H2O2- 诱导的 HaCaT 细胞评估了细胞活力、ROS 和炎症因子(TNF-α、IL-1β 和 IL-6)。此外,我们还利用成纤维细胞或重建皮肤模型验证了对细胞外基质和核 DNA 的影响。在使用含 3% FTE 的乳液 28 天和 56 天后,我们测量了志愿者皮肤的水合作用、弹性、皱纹面积、皱纹面积比、红斑面积和红斑面积比:结果:白茶叶的靶向代谢组学分析得出了20多种具有抗氧化和抗炎活性的差异代谢物,包括氨基酸、多肽、槲皮素和发酵后的利奎灵。与 TE 相比,FTE 能显著减少活性氧(ROS),保护 H2O2- 诱导的 HaCaT 细胞免受氧化应激引起的皮肤损伤。FTE 可通过抑制 MAPK/c-Jun 信号通路来抑制 H2O2 诱导的胶原降解,还能减轻活性氧对核 DNA 的损伤。临床研究表明,使用 FTE 28 天和 56 天后,志愿者的角质层含水量、皮肤弹性、皱纹面积、皱纹面积比、红斑面积和红斑面积比与基线相比均有显著改善:这项研究为越来越多的文献支持发酵植物提取物对皮肤氧化应激和老化的保护作用做出了贡献。此外,我们的研究结果可能会激励多学科努力研究新的发酵技术,从而生产出更有效的抗衰老解决方案。
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来源期刊
CiteScore
4.60
自引率
4.30%
发文量
73
期刊介绍: The Journal publishes original refereed papers, review papers and correspondence in the fields of cosmetic research. It is read by practising cosmetic scientists and dermatologists, as well as specialists in more diverse disciplines that are developing new products which contact the skin, hair, nails or mucous membranes. The aim of the Journal is to present current scientific research, both pure and applied, in: cosmetics, toiletries, perfumery and allied fields. Areas that are of particular interest include: studies in skin physiology and interactions with cosmetic ingredients, innovation in claim substantiation methods (in silico, in vitro, ex vivo, in vivo), human and in vitro safety testing of cosmetic ingredients and products, physical chemistry and technology of emulsion and dispersed systems, theory and application of surfactants, new developments in olfactive research, aerosol technology and selected aspects of analytical chemistry.
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