Influence of particle parameters on deposition onto healthy and damaged human hair.

IF 2.7 4区 医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2024-08-12 DOI:10.1111/ics.12994
Huijun Phoebe Tham, Kah Yuen Yip, Srinivasulu Aitipamula, Srinivasa Reddy Mothe, Wenguang Zhao, Ping Sen Choong, Ayca Altay Benetti, Wanjuan Evonne Gan, Fong Yew Leong, Praveen Thoniyot, Thomas L Dawson
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Abstract

Objective: This research investigates how particle parameters, such as zeta potential, size, functional group, material composition, and hydrophobicity affect their affinity and deposition of particles onto hair.

Methods: Streaming potential was used as the technique for analysis. The streaming potential data obtained was then converted to surface coverage data. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) was also done to visualize particle localization on the hair surface.

Results: This study found stronger particle affinity on healthy than on damaged (oxidatively bleached) hair, due to diminished interaction sites from the removal of the hair shaft's external lipid layer. SEM imaging supported these findings and offered insights into particle localization. Hydrophilic silica particles accumulated along the exposed hydrophilic cuticle edges of healthy hair, due to hydrogen bonding with the exposed endocuticle. This localization is hypothesized to be due to the limited hydrophilic binding sites on the hydrophobic healthy hair cuticle surface. In damaged hair, an abundance of hydrophilic sites across the cuticle surface results in more dispersed binding. Hydrogen bonding and electrostatic attraction were shown to be the predominant forces influencing deposition, with hydrophobic interactions playing a less influential role. The affinity studies also proved that electrostatic attractions work over a longer range and are more effective at lower particle conditions compared with hydrogen bonding which only start to play a bigger role at higher particle concentrations. Steric hindrance of bulky side groups acted as a significant repulsive force. Results also revealed that larger particles deposit poorly on both healthy and damaged hair compared with smaller ones. Compared with neutrally charged silica nanoparticles (SN-2), positively charged PMMA particles (PN+16) have a stronger affinity to healthy hair, with highly charged particles (PN+49) depositing most rapidly.

Conclusion: This study provides a fundamental understanding of how particle-surface parameters influence their affinity to hair and how damaging hair affects deposition.

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颗粒参数对沉积在健康和受损人类头发上的影响
目的:研究颗粒参数,如 zeta 电位、尺寸、官能团、材料成分和疏水性,如何影响其在头发上的亲和力和沉积:本研究探讨了 zeta 电位、尺寸、官能团、材料成分和疏水性等颗粒参数如何影响颗粒的亲和力以及颗粒在头发上的沉积情况:方法:采用流电位作为分析技术。方法:采用流电位作为分析技术,然后将获得的流电位数据转换为表面覆盖率数据。此外,还使用扫描电子显微镜(SEM)观察颗粒在头发表面的定位情况:结果:这项研究发现,健康头发上的微粒亲和力比受损(氧化漂白)头发上的微粒亲和力更强,这是因为去除发干外部脂质层后,相互作用位点减少了。扫描电子显微镜成像支持了这些发现,并提供了关于颗粒定位的见解。亲水性二氧化硅微粒沿着健康头发暴露的亲水性角质层边缘聚集,这是由于与暴露的内表皮层发生了氢键作用。据推测,这种定位是由于健康头发疏水性角质层表面的亲水结合点有限。而在受损的头发中,整个角质层表面有大量的亲水位点,因此结合更加分散。研究表明,氢键和静电吸引是影响沉积的主要作用力,而疏水相互作用的影响较小。亲和力研究还证明,静电吸引的作用范围更广,在较低的颗粒条件下更有效,而氢键只有在颗粒浓度较高时才开始发挥更大作用。笨重侧基的立体阻碍是一种重要的排斥力。结果还显示,与较小的颗粒相比,较大的颗粒在健康和受损头发上的沉积效果都较差。与带中性电荷的二氧化硅纳米粒子(SN-2)相比,带正电荷的 PMMA 粒子(PN+16)对健康头发的亲和力更强,而带高电荷的粒子(PN+49)沉积速度最快:这项研究从根本上揭示了颗粒表面参数如何影响颗粒与头发的亲和力,以及损伤头发如何影响沉积。
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来源期刊
CiteScore
4.60
自引率
4.30%
发文量
73
期刊介绍: The Journal publishes original refereed papers, review papers and correspondence in the fields of cosmetic research. It is read by practising cosmetic scientists and dermatologists, as well as specialists in more diverse disciplines that are developing new products which contact the skin, hair, nails or mucous membranes. The aim of the Journal is to present current scientific research, both pure and applied, in: cosmetics, toiletries, perfumery and allied fields. Areas that are of particular interest include: studies in skin physiology and interactions with cosmetic ingredients, innovation in claim substantiation methods (in silico, in vitro, ex vivo, in vivo), human and in vitro safety testing of cosmetic ingredients and products, physical chemistry and technology of emulsion and dispersed systems, theory and application of surfactants, new developments in olfactive research, aerosol technology and selected aspects of analytical chemistry.
期刊最新文献
Estimating hair density with XGBoost. A new ex vivo human skin model for the topographic and biological analysis of cosmetic formulas. Micellar solubility and co-solubilization of fragrance raw materials in sodium dodecyl sulfate and polysorbate 20 surfactant systems. Insights into structural and proteomic alterations related to pH-induced changes and protein deamidation in hair. Moisturizing and antioxidant factors of skin barrier restoring cream with shea butter, silkflo and vitamin E in human keratinocyte cells.
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