Shifting sands: The influence of coral reefs on shoreline erosion from short-term storm protection to long-term disequilibrium

Stephan A Bitterwolf , Borja G Reguero , Curt D Storlazzi , Michael W Beck
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Abstract

Climate change is exacerbating shoreline erosion and flooding, posing significant risks to coastal communities. Although traditional coastal defenses such as seawalls, dykes, and breakwaters offer protection from these hazards, their high environmental and economic costs are driving interest in cost-competitive nature-based solutions. Coral reef restoration is a nature-based solution that may be particularly apt to mitigate tropical coastal flooding and shoreline erosion while providing benefits to local tourism, fisheries, and nature. However, the novelty of this field requires studies demonstrating the benefits of reefs for coastal protection. While the flood protection benefits of reefs have been well-documented, their effects on shoreline erosion are comparatively less understood. Here, we investigate the effects of coral reefs on shoreline erosion by comparing tropical beach responses at short and long timescales, as well as identifying important reef structural features influencing coastal erosion rates. Our analyses leveraged two key datasets created in this study: the first derived from a literature review on short-term shoreline erosion due to storm events, and another compiling >80 years of long-term erosion rates, bathymetry, habitat, and wave energy for the Hawaiian Islands of Kauaʻi, Oʻahu, and Maui. Our analyses reveal three key findings regarding the effects of reefs on shoreline erosion. Firstly, we find evidence for the role of reefs in mitigating shoreline erosion during storm events, with coral reef-protected beaches experiencing 97 % less beach volume loss than unprotected beaches. Secondly, a linear regression analysis demonstrates that coral reef structure and wave energy are important predictors of long-term shoreline erosion rates, explaining 34 % of the variation across the Hawaiian Islands. Consistent with prior research, we find beaches protected by coral reefs with shallow reef crests, wide reef flats, calmer offshore conditions, and positioned farther from the shore exhibit lower erosion rates than others. Finally, when comparing historical erosion rates of protected and unprotected beaches in Hawai'i, we find a seemingly incongruous pattern where coral reef-protected beaches eroded up to 2x faster than beaches without reefs. While the cause of the enhanced erosion is yet to be fully understood, a combination of coral reef structural degradation and sea-level rise is likely shifting the equilibrium profiles of reef-protected beaches inshore. These results emphasize the role of coral reefs in reducing coastal erosion during storm events while revealing contrasting erosion patterns over long timescales. Future studies would ideally broaden the scope to include various regions, utilize advanced sediment transport models, and undertake field experiments to deepen our understanding of coral reef-coupled shoreline dynamics.

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移动的沙滩:珊瑚礁对海岸线侵蚀的影响:从短期风暴保护到长期失衡
气候变化加剧了海岸线侵蚀和洪水泛滥,给沿海社区带来了巨大风险。尽管海堤、堤坝和防波堤等传统的海岸防御措施可以抵御这些灾害,但其高昂的环境和经济成本正促使人们对具有成本竞争力的自然解决方案产生兴趣。珊瑚礁恢复就是一种基于自然的解决方案,它可能特别适合减缓热带沿海洪水和海岸线侵蚀,同时为当地旅游业、渔业和自然带来益处。然而,这一领域的新颖性要求开展研究,证明珊瑚礁对海岸保护的益处。虽然珊瑚礁的防洪效益已得到充分证明,但其对海岸线侵蚀的影响却鲜为人知。在这里,我们通过比较热带海滩在短期和长期时间尺度上的反应,研究珊瑚礁对海岸线侵蚀的影响,并确定影响海岸侵蚀速率的重要珊瑚礁结构特征。我们的分析利用了本研究中创建的两个关键数据集:第一个数据集来自关于风暴事件导致的短期海岸线侵蚀的文献综述,另一个数据集汇编了夏威夷考艾岛、欧阿胡岛和茂宜岛 80 年来的长期侵蚀率、水深测量、栖息地和波浪能。我们的分析揭示了珊瑚礁对海岸线侵蚀作用的三个主要发现。首先,我们发现了珊瑚礁在风暴事件中减轻海岸线侵蚀作用的证据,受珊瑚礁保护的海滩比未受保护的海滩减少了 97% 的海滩体积损失。其次,线性回归分析表明,珊瑚礁结构和波浪能是预测长期海岸线侵蚀率的重要因素,可解释夏威夷群岛 34% 的变化。与之前的研究结果一致,我们发现受珊瑚礁保护的海滩具有浅礁峰、宽礁滩、较平静的近海条件以及离海岸较远等特点,其侵蚀率低于其他海滩。最后,在比较夏威夷受保护海滩和未受保护海滩的历史侵蚀率时,我们发现了一个看似不协调的模式,即受珊瑚礁保护的海滩的侵蚀速度是未受珊瑚礁保护海滩的 2 倍。虽然侵蚀加剧的原因尚不完全清楚,但珊瑚礁结构退化和海平面上升的共同作用很可能使受珊瑚礁保护的海滩的平衡剖面向近岸移动。这些结果强调了珊瑚礁在风暴事件中减少海岸侵蚀的作用,同时也揭示了长时间尺度上截然不同的侵蚀模式。未来的研究最好能将范围扩大到不同地区,利用先进的沉积物输运模型,并进行实地实验,以加深我们对珊瑚礁耦合海岸线动力学的理解。
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