Gastronomic ethnobiology of smelt, Osmerus eperlanus (L., 1758), a culturally significant but vanishing food item in Sweden

Abstract

European smelt, Osmeras eperlanus L., was popular as food in central Sweden a century ago. During spring spawning, this fish could easily be caught in large quantities in rivers and streams with nets and wooden traps. While it is still appreciated as a delicious spring primer in several countries around the Baltic Sea, in Sweden its consumption is negligible. The fish has vanished from markets and restaurant menus, and it is fished only locally in Central Sweden. In Stockholm, smelt was fished commercially until 2016.

Smelt is a small fish yet loaded with cultural symbolism, and it has attracted the attention of authors, designers, and visual artists for centuries. Attempts to relaunch smelt as a local speciality have had only marginal impact. It is far from endangered in Swedish waters, but as human food, this fish has gone from highly popular to neglected and ultimately ignored. This article discusses the significance of smelt as food and cultural symbol in historical times, causes and consequences of changing habits, and their influence on the consumption of smelt, the loss of knowledge regarding fish preparation, and the place of fish today in Swedish food traditions versus modern food preferences.