Never eat foods that are not in season: The commodification and authentication of gastronomic identity in tourism

IF 3.2 2区农林科学 Q2 FOOD SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science Pub Date : 2024-10-11 DOI:10.1016/j.ijgfs.2024.101035

Denian Cheng , Jian Wu , Xiaolian (Sharleen) Chen , Yongbo Zhou

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Abstract

Gastronomic identity is an emerging concept with considerable explanatory power in understanding cultural and social dynamics. This study investigates the meaning of gastronomic identity and the cultural and social processes involved in its touristic commodification. The study was conducted in Suzhou, China, using a multi-method qualitative approach comprising participant observation, secondary document analysis, and semi-structured interviews. Analysis reveals that the essence of Suzhou's gastronomic identity lies in seasonality, periodic changes in local food supply and demand. The commodification of this seasonal feature has transformed into a cultural allure for visitors. Stakeholders strategically leverage seasonal selections and culinary presentations to authenticate the regional gastronomic identity. However, these efforts are undermined by unethical food business practices—disregarding seasonality and engaging in premature food production—that threaten seasonal food culture's authenticity. This study enhances our understanding of the place-based meaning of gastronomic identity and its commodification and authentication in tourism.

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不吃反季节食品：旅游业中美食身份的商品化与认证

美食认同是一个新兴概念，在理解文化和社会动态方面具有相当大的解释力。本研究探讨了美食认同的含义及其旅游商品化所涉及的文化和社会过程。研究在中国苏州进行，采用了多种定性方法，包括参与观察、二手文献分析和半结构式访谈。分析表明，苏州美食特色的本质在于季节性，即当地食品供需的周期性变化。这种季节性特征的商品化已转化为对游客的文化诱惑。利益相关者战略性地利用季节性选择和烹饪展示来彰显地区美食特色。然而，不道德的食品商业行为--无视季节性和过早生产食品--破坏了这些努力，威胁了季节性饮食文化的真实性。这项研究加深了我们对美食身份的地方性意义及其在旅游业中的商品化和认证的理解。

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来源期刊

International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science Social Sciences-Cultural Studies

CiteScore

5.30

自引率

10.50%

发文量

170

审稿时长

45 days

期刊介绍： International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science is a peer-reviewed journal that explicitly focuses on the interface of food science and gastronomy. Articles focusing only on food science will not be considered. This journal equally encourages both scientists and chefs to publish original scientific papers, review articles and original culinary works. We seek articles with clear evidence of this interaction. From a scientific perspective, this publication aims to become the home for research from the whole community of food science and gastronomy. IJGFS explores all aspects related to the growing field of the interaction of gastronomy and food science, in areas such as food chemistry, food technology and culinary techniques, food microbiology, genetics, sensory science, neuroscience, psychology, culinary concepts, culinary trends, and gastronomic experience (all the elements that contribute to the appreciation and enjoyment of the meal. Also relevant is research on science-based educational programs in gastronomy, anthropology, gastronomic history and food sociology. All these areas of knowledge are crucial to gastronomy, as they contribute to a better understanding of this broad term and its practical implications for science and society.