The Relation of pH and Skin Cleansing.

Current problems in dermatology Pub Date : 2018-01-01 Epub Date: 2018-08-21 DOI:10.1159/000489527
Jürgen Blaak, Peter Staib
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引用次数: 43

Abstract

Several epidermal barrier functions, like skin barrier regeneration and antimicrobial response, are related to the acidic nature of the skin surface pH (ss-pH). However, the epidermal acidification is known to be fragile and it is commonly accepted that cosmetic products, especially soaps and skin cleansing products, can induce significant changes in ss-pH. As a consequence, epidermal barrier function and skin microflora are affected negatively. ss-pH even increases after a single washing procedure or after rinsing the skin with water alone. The skin pH recovery needs time up to several hours before it can reach the physiological level. For cosmetic-relevant skin conditions, skin disorders and specific consumer groups, maintaining of the acidic ss-pH is beneficial for epidermal physiology and cutaneous microflora. In this context, cleansing and skin care products with a pH level of 4.0-5.0 may be helpful. In addition, combining the acidic product pH level with the ideal mix of surfactants, thereby enhancing product compatibility and minimizing skin irritation and intolerance, is a major challenge for the future. Beyond innovative cleansing technology, further multifaceted cosmetic research is a prerequisite to get deeper knowledge on the interrelation of product pH level, surfactant composition and corneobiology.

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pH值与皮肤清洁的关系。
一些表皮屏障功能,如皮肤屏障再生和抗菌反应,与皮肤表面pH值(ss-pH)的酸性有关。然而,众所周知表皮酸化是脆弱的,人们普遍认为化妆品,特别是肥皂和皮肤清洁产品,可以引起ss-pH值的显著变化。因此,表皮屏障功能和皮肤微生物群受到负面影响。ss-pH值甚至在单次洗涤程序或仅用水冲洗皮肤后增加。皮肤pH值的恢复需要几个小时才能达到生理水平。对于化妆品相关的皮肤状况,皮肤疾病和特定的消费群体,维持酸性的ss-pH值有利于表皮生理和皮肤微生物群。在这种情况下,pH值为4.0-5.0的清洁和护肤产品可能会有所帮助。此外,如何将酸性产品的pH值与理想的表面活性剂组合在一起,从而提高产品的兼容性,最大限度地减少皮肤刺激和不耐受,是未来的主要挑战。除了创新的清洁技术之外,进一步的多方面化妆品研究是深入了解产品pH值,表面活性剂成分和角膜生物学相互关系的先决条件。
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CiteScore
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