{"title":"Local Wave Energy Dissipation and Morphological Beach Characteristics along a Northernmost Segment of the Polish Coast","authors":"G. Różyński","doi":"10.1515/heem-2018-0007","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This paper analyses cross-shore bathymetric profiles between Władysławowo (km 125 of the Polish coastal chainage) and Lake Sarbsko (km 174) done in 2005 and 2011. Spaced every 500 m, they cover beach topography from dune/cliff crests to a seabed depth of about 15 m. They were decomposed by signal processing techniques to extract the monotonic component of beach topography and to perform a straightforward assessment of wave energy dissipation rates. Three characteristic dissipation patterns were identified: one associated with large nearshore bars and 2–3 zones of wave breaking; a second, to which the equilibrium beach profile concept can be applied; and a third, characterized by mixed behaviour. An attempt was then made to interpret these types of wave energy dissipation in terms of local coastal morphological features and the underlying sedimentary characteristics.","PeriodicalId":53658,"journal":{"name":"Archives of Hydroengineering and Environmental Mechanics","volume":"65 1","pages":"108 - 91"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0000,"publicationDate":"2018-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"1","resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Archives of Hydroengineering and Environmental Mechanics","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1515/heem-2018-0007","RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":null,"ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"Q4","JCRName":"Environmental Science","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Abstract
Abstract This paper analyses cross-shore bathymetric profiles between Władysławowo (km 125 of the Polish coastal chainage) and Lake Sarbsko (km 174) done in 2005 and 2011. Spaced every 500 m, they cover beach topography from dune/cliff crests to a seabed depth of about 15 m. They were decomposed by signal processing techniques to extract the monotonic component of beach topography and to perform a straightforward assessment of wave energy dissipation rates. Three characteristic dissipation patterns were identified: one associated with large nearshore bars and 2–3 zones of wave breaking; a second, to which the equilibrium beach profile concept can be applied; and a third, characterized by mixed behaviour. An attempt was then made to interpret these types of wave energy dissipation in terms of local coastal morphological features and the underlying sedimentary characteristics.
期刊介绍：
Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics cover the broad area of disciplines related to hydro-engineering, including: hydrodynamics and hydraulics of inlands and sea waters, hydrology, hydroelasticity, ground-water hydraulics, water contamination, coastal engineering, geotechnical engineering, geomechanics, structural mechanics, etc. The main objective of Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics is to provide an up-to-date reference to the engineers and scientists engaged in the applications of mechanics to the analysis of various phenomena appearing in the natural environment.
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