Pretty Gentlemen. Macaroni Men and the Eighteenth-Century Fashion World

J. Milam
{"title":"Pretty Gentlemen. Macaroni Men and the Eighteenth-Century Fashion World","authors":"J. Milam","doi":"10.1080/14434318.2022.2143764","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"Most people have heard the term macaroni through the ditty “Yankee Doodle”, but few, even within art history and fashion studies, know of the extensive visual and textual materials related to the ‘macaroni men’ in eighteenth-century culture. In his global research into all things macaroni, Peter McNeil has pulled together a rich history of this cosmopolitan presentation of the (male) self to resurrect the macaroni men, questioning what their fashion sense enabled and exploring alternative conceptions of masculinity. The first book-length study devoted to this male fashion figure of the 1760s and 1770s, it starts off with a series of questions related to the meaning of clothing, the swiftness of changes in fashion, and the classical framework through which young men of the eighteenth century engaged in fashionable luxuries that improved their appearance. With over 150 illustrations, mostly of objects rarely seen and little known, the reader is introduced to a visually rich history of the macaroni. McNeil’s painstaking research over many decades in collections around the world has gathered a large resource of previously unknown (or at least hardly known) objects and garments. Indeed, the preface provides a delightful introduction to the adventures that the author had in his quest to view every piece of porcelain, text, painting, print, and sculpted memorial dedicated to the macaroni. Holdings of the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto include richly embroidered silk coats and waistcoats of French and English origin, as well as a coral-pink ribbed-silk suit with ermine lining and cuffs, that bring to life examples known through the paintings of JeanEtienne Liotard, Thomas Gainsborough, and Pompeo Batoni of English aristocrats, many of which are Grand Tour portraits. There are also wonderful illustrations of examples of male dress from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, the National Gallery of Victoria, the Museum of London, the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto, and private collections in the United Kingdom and the United States. Extraordinary accessory objects are also reproduced—including a pair of coloured and embroidered silk stockings, swords with elaborate chasing and gilt mounts, shoe buckles and buttons, a wig-bag and power bellows—which were objects that may have otherwise appeared to be the subject of excessive and conspicuous consumption, only known through caricatures. This is one of the major contributions of the","PeriodicalId":29864,"journal":{"name":"Australian and New Zealand Journal of Art","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.1000,"publicationDate":"2022-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"2","resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Australian and New Zealand Journal of Art","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14434318.2022.2143764","RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":null,"ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"0","JCRName":"ART","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 2

Abstract

Most people have heard the term macaroni through the ditty “Yankee Doodle”, but few, even within art history and fashion studies, know of the extensive visual and textual materials related to the ‘macaroni men’ in eighteenth-century culture. In his global research into all things macaroni, Peter McNeil has pulled together a rich history of this cosmopolitan presentation of the (male) self to resurrect the macaroni men, questioning what their fashion sense enabled and exploring alternative conceptions of masculinity. The first book-length study devoted to this male fashion figure of the 1760s and 1770s, it starts off with a series of questions related to the meaning of clothing, the swiftness of changes in fashion, and the classical framework through which young men of the eighteenth century engaged in fashionable luxuries that improved their appearance. With over 150 illustrations, mostly of objects rarely seen and little known, the reader is introduced to a visually rich history of the macaroni. McNeil’s painstaking research over many decades in collections around the world has gathered a large resource of previously unknown (or at least hardly known) objects and garments. Indeed, the preface provides a delightful introduction to the adventures that the author had in his quest to view every piece of porcelain, text, painting, print, and sculpted memorial dedicated to the macaroni. Holdings of the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto include richly embroidered silk coats and waistcoats of French and English origin, as well as a coral-pink ribbed-silk suit with ermine lining and cuffs, that bring to life examples known through the paintings of JeanEtienne Liotard, Thomas Gainsborough, and Pompeo Batoni of English aristocrats, many of which are Grand Tour portraits. There are also wonderful illustrations of examples of male dress from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, the National Gallery of Victoria, the Museum of London, the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto, and private collections in the United Kingdom and the United States. Extraordinary accessory objects are also reproduced—including a pair of coloured and embroidered silk stockings, swords with elaborate chasing and gilt mounts, shoe buckles and buttons, a wig-bag and power bellows—which were objects that may have otherwise appeared to be the subject of excessive and conspicuous consumption, only known through caricatures. This is one of the major contributions of the
查看原文
分享 分享
微信好友 朋友圈 QQ好友 复制链接
本刊更多论文
很绅士。通心粉男人和18世纪的时尚世界
大多数人都是通过“Yankee Doodle”这首小调听说过通心粉这个词的,但很少有人,甚至在艺术史和时尚研究中,知道18世纪文化中与“通心粉人”相关的大量视觉和文本材料。彼得·麦克尼尔(Peter McNeil)在对通心粉的全球研究中,汇集了这种(男性)自我的世界性表现的丰富历史,让通心粉男复活,质疑他们的时尚感赋予了什么,并探索了男性气概的另一种概念。这是第一本专门研究18世纪60年代和70年代男性时尚人物的书,它从一系列与服装的意义、时尚变化的速度以及18世纪年轻人从事时尚奢侈品以改善他们外表的经典框架有关的问题开始。书中有150多幅插图,其中大部分是罕见和鲜为人知的物品,读者可以从视觉上了解到通心粉丰富的历史。麦克尼尔几十年来对世界各地的藏品进行了艰苦的研究,收集了大量以前不为人知(或至少几乎不为人知)的物品和服装。事实上,前言提供了一个愉快的介绍,作者在他的探索冒险,每一块瓷器,文字,绘画,印刷,雕刻纪念献给通心粉。多伦多皇家安大略博物馆(Royal Ontario Museum)的藏品包括源自法国和英国的刺绣华丽的丝绸外套和马甲,以及一件珊瑚粉色的棱纹丝绸西装,里面有貂皮衬里和袖口,这些作品通过珍妮·艾蒂安·利奥塔德(JeanEtienne Liotard)、托马斯·盖恩斯伯勒(Thomas Gainsborough)和庞培·巴托尼(Pompeo Batoni)描绘的英国贵族的画作让人栩栩如生,其中许多都是大巡展的肖像画。还有来自洛杉矶县艺术博物馆、维多利亚国家美术馆、伦敦博物馆、多伦多巴塔鞋博物馆以及英国和美国私人收藏的精彩插图。非凡的附属物品也被复制了——包括一双彩色和刺绣的丝袜,镶有精致的镶金底座的剑,鞋扣和纽扣,假发袋和风箱——这些物品可能是过度和炫耀性消费的对象,只有通过漫画才知道。这是一个主要的贡献
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
求助全文
约1分钟内获得全文 去求助
来源期刊
CiteScore
0.20
自引率
0.00%
发文量
16
期刊最新文献
Responses to Charles Esche, The First Exhibition of the Twenty-First Century—Lumbung 1 (Documenta Fifteen), What Happened, and What It Might Mean Two Years On Three Projects Peripheral to Documentas 7, 8 and IX The First Exhibition of the Twenty-First Century—Lumbung 1 (Documenta Fifteen), What Happened, and What It Might Mean Two Years On Defunct Infrastructure: On the 60th Venice Biennale, Stranieri Ovunque–Foreigners Everywhere Unorchestrated Symphony: documenta fifteen as a Site of Resistance
×
引用
GB/T 7714-2015
复制
MLA
复制
APA
复制
导出至
BibTeX EndNote RefMan NoteFirst NoteExpress
×
×
提示
您的信息不完整,为了账户安全,请先补充。
现在去补充
×
提示
您因"违规操作"
具体请查看互助需知
我知道了
×
提示
现在去查看 取消
×
提示
确定
0
微信
客服QQ
Book学术公众号 扫码关注我们
反馈
×
意见反馈
请填写您的意见或建议
请填写您的手机或邮箱
已复制链接
已复制链接
快去分享给好友吧!
我知道了
×
扫码分享
扫码分享
Book学术官方微信
Book学术文献互助
Book学术文献互助群
群 号:481959085
Book学术
文献互助 智能选刊 最新文献 互助须知 联系我们:info@booksci.cn
Book学术提供免费学术资源搜索服务,方便国内外学者检索中英文文献。致力于提供最便捷和优质的服务体验。
Copyright © 2023 Book学术 All rights reserved.
ghs 京公网安备 11010802042870号 京ICP备2023020795号-1