{"title":"Captured in the Clothing","authors":"E. Farrell, E. McKee","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2022.2039484","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"Clothing was hugely important in the identification of criminal suspects at large, missing persons, or deceased strangers in the nineteenth century. Descriptions of dress thus feature prominently in the Irish police gazette, the Hue and Cry, which published wanted notices from across the island. This article explores what descriptions in the Hue and Cry reveal about clothing and the wearer in Ireland and is based on a sample of 4,083 notices published from the 1850s to 1890s that document almost 14,000 individual items of clothing and footwear. It showcases intertwined meanings attached to clothing and argues that inhabitants could “read” bodies for what dress revealed about the wearer, with a particular focus on gender, age, social position, and occupation. Recognizing that people’s garments identified them in multiple ways, this article also shows that Irish inhabitants used dress as a form of deception. In doing so, it offers fresh insight into how nineteenth-century Irish inhabitants dressed and understood their clothing and the clothing of others.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"48 1","pages":"125 - 142"},"PeriodicalIF":0.2000,"publicationDate":"2022-04-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2022.2039484","RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"0","JCRName":"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Abstract
Clothing was hugely important in the identification of criminal suspects at large, missing persons, or deceased strangers in the nineteenth century. Descriptions of dress thus feature prominently in the Irish police gazette, the Hue and Cry, which published wanted notices from across the island. This article explores what descriptions in the Hue and Cry reveal about clothing and the wearer in Ireland and is based on a sample of 4,083 notices published from the 1850s to 1890s that document almost 14,000 individual items of clothing and footwear. It showcases intertwined meanings attached to clothing and argues that inhabitants could “read” bodies for what dress revealed about the wearer, with a particular focus on gender, age, social position, and occupation. Recognizing that people’s garments identified them in multiple ways, this article also shows that Irish inhabitants used dress as a form of deception. In doing so, it offers fresh insight into how nineteenth-century Irish inhabitants dressed and understood their clothing and the clothing of others.
在19世纪,服装在识别在逃犯罪嫌疑人、失踪人员或死去的陌生人方面非常重要。因此,在爱尔兰警方公报《色相与呐喊》(Hue and Cry)上,对着装的描述占据了显著位置,该公报刊登了全岛各地的通缉令。本文基于19世纪50年代至90年代发布的4083份通知样本,研究了《色相与呐喊》中对爱尔兰服装和穿着者的描述,这些通知记录了近14000件服装和鞋类。它展示了服装所附带的相互交织的含义,并认为居民可以“读懂”穿着者的身体,特别关注性别、年龄、社会地位和职业。认识到人们的服装可以以多种方式识别他们,这篇文章还表明,爱尔兰居民将服装作为一种欺骗形式。在这样做的过程中,它为19世纪爱尔兰居民如何穿着和理解他们的服装以及其他人的服装提供了新的视角。