The Typical Tudor: Reconstructing Everyday 16th Century Dress

IF 0.2 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2023-05-19 DOI:10.1080/03612112.2023.2206744
Jennifer Saxton-Rodríguez
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引用次数: 2

Abstract

In their book The Typical Tudor: Reconstructing Everyday 16th Century Dress, Jane Malcolm-Davies and Ninya Mikhaila make an argument for how workingand middle-class people dressed during the Tudor era in England. They support it with a variety of evidence: wills, legal documents, archeological finds, portraits, extant garments, and many other sources. This book is a follow-up and elaboration upon The Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing Sixteenth-Century Dress (2006). It starts with an introduction that explains the groups of people the authors consider “typical,” which defines the scope of the book. Malcolm-Davies and Mikhaila offer visual and written evidence in support of their stance and, using this as a starting point, begin the book by describing how ordinary people purchased or otherwise acquired yardage and clothing. The next chapters are a detailed exploration of fabrics and colors used by “the typical Tudor.” Augmenting this chapter is a table with the names of colors and fabrics commonly used with supporting documentary evidence and descriptions of how each fabric was used in the construction of garments. It concludes with a page of pie charts detailing how color was used by the ordinary English person of the sixteenth century. The following chapter details construction techniques (hand stitches, fabric buttons, knitting and fulling instructions, methods for pleats, etc.) and includes detailed photographs of extant tools and garments from the sixteenth century, diagrams, and color photographs. Most of the rest of the book focuses on a variety of construction techniques for specific sixteenth-century garments and data about them. Possibly the most exciting of these sections describes in detail the cut, composition, and construction of a previously undiscovered
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典型的都铎王朝:重建16世纪日常服饰
简·马尔科姆·戴维斯(Jane Malcolm Davies)和妮娅·米哈伊拉(Ninya Mikhaila)在他们的《典型的都铎王朝:重建16世纪的日常服饰》(The Typical Tudor:Reconstructing Everyday 16th Century Dress)一书中,就英国都铎时代工人和中产阶级的穿着方式展开了争论。他们用各种证据来支持它:遗嘱、法律文件、考古发现、肖像、现存服装和许多其他来源。本书是对《都铎裁缝:重建十六世纪服饰》(2006)的后续和阐述。它首先介绍了作者认为“典型”的人群,从而定义了本书的范围。Malcolm Davies和Mikhaila提供了视觉和书面证据来支持他们的立场,并以此为出发点,在书的开头描述了普通人是如何购买或以其他方式获得码数和衣服的。接下来的章节将详细探讨“典型都铎王朝”所使用的面料和颜色。本章的补充内容是一张表格,其中列出了常用的颜色和面料名称,以及支持性的文件证据和每种面料如何用于服装构造的描述。最后是一页饼图,详细描述了16世纪普通英国人是如何使用颜色的。下一章详细介绍了施工技术(手工缝线、织物纽扣、编织和填充说明、褶皱方法等),并包括16世纪现存工具和服装的详细照片、图表和彩色照片。本书的其余大部分内容都集中在16世纪特定服装的各种构造技术和相关数据上。这些章节中可能最令人兴奋的部分详细描述了以前未发现的
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来源期刊
CiteScore
0.20
自引率
0.00%
发文量
28
期刊最新文献
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