Wave climate and power distribution around a rocky island: Alcatrazes, Brazil

IF 1 4区 地球科学 Q3 MARINE & FRESHWATER BIOLOGY Ocean and Coastal Research Pub Date : 2021-05-28 DOI:10.1590/2675-2824069.20-009LST
Leonardo Silveira Takase, L. P. Stein, N. Hoff, E. Siegle
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引用次数: 3

Abstract

ABSTRACT We investigate the distribution of the wave power around the Alcatrazes island, a protected marine reserve in southeastern Brazil, located at 20 nautical miles from the coast of Sao Sebastiao/SP. A 14-year wave time series (2005-2018) extracted from the global WaveWatch III model, was used to obtain the offshore wave climate. Based on the wave climate, a wave propagation model (Delft3D) was applied in order to obtain nearshore information. The most frequent waves are from the east, southeast and south, with heights between 1.0 and 2.0 m and periods of 7 to 10 s. Due to dominant wave direction incidence, the wave power is higher at the more exposed eastern side of the island, with its lee side becoming shadowed from the main wave trains. Magnitudes vary seasonally, with winter and autumn presenting more energetic southerly waves and consequent higher wave power along the rocky island. The wave power distribution is a consequence of the incident wave characteristics and the geomorphology of the island. Our findings are the first assessment of the local wave climate and wave power distribution along the rocky shores of Alcatrazes island, providing important background information for understanding different aspects of its functioning and management.
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巴西阿尔卡特拉斯岛,岩石岛周围的波浪气候和能量分布
摘要:我们研究了巴西东南部受保护的海洋保护区Alcatrazes岛周围的波浪力分布。Alcatraze岛位于圣保罗海岸20海里处。从全球WaveWatch III模型中提取的14年波浪时间序列(2005-2018)用于获得近海波浪气候。基于波浪气候,应用波浪传播模型(Delft3D)获取近岸信息。最频繁的波浪来自东部、东南部和南部,高度在1.0至2.0 m之间,周期为7至10 s。由于主要的波浪方向入射,岛上更暴露的东侧的波浪功率更高,其背风侧被主波列遮蔽。震级随季节变化,冬季和秋季会出现更强劲的南向波浪,因此岩石岛沿岸的波浪功率会更高。波浪功率分布是入射波特征和岛屿地貌的结果。我们的发现首次评估了恶魔岛岩石海岸的当地波浪气候和波浪功率分布,为了解其功能和管理的不同方面提供了重要的背景信息。
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CiteScore
1.60
自引率
12.50%
发文量
21
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