Evaluation of the influence of niacinamide and saccharide isomerate on the rheological behavior of a hydrogel for topical use

Abstract

Among the cosmetic forms used to administer cosmetic actives, the gel form has been highly sought after, as it offers a non-greasy sensation and allows the application of the formulation associated with ultrasound techniques for skin rejuvenation, such as phonophoresis. The aim of the present study was to develop a stable system for delivering anti-aging actives to the skin containing niacinamide and saccharide isomerate. The formulation and base development stage included a stability and rheological study over 16 weeks. The rheological analysis consisted of steady-state flow measurements and amplitude sweep tests, followed by a frequency sweep test. Three-interval thixotropy testing (3ITT) was also performed. As a result, the developed system showed high stability throughout the 16-week period. The organoleptic and rheological stability profile of the base and the formulation was quite similar, indicating that the presence of actives is indifferent to gel stability. Furthermore, rheologically, the base and the formulation exhibited shear-thinning behavior. The addition of the actives in the formulation decreased the apparent viscosity value by nearly half of the original value. Strong viscoelastic behavior was evidenced in both samples. In the end, the 3ITT test revealed a high recovery of sample viscosity. It can be concluded that the developed gel is a promising formulation for the topical administration of the studied actives.