Influence of Emollient on the Preparation and stability of Sodiun Ascorbyl Phospate Cream

Y. D. Mardhiani, Deny Puriyani Azhari, Silviana Wulansari
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Abstract

As a type of cosmetic preparation products, cream dosage form is widely used with the addition of active substances having antioxidant activities, such as vitamin C and its derivatives. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) can be used in topical formulation due to its more stable properties than ascorbic acid. However, it is difficult to deliver SAP into the dermis in a suficient dose. To overcome the problem, occasionally we can add a penetration enhancer. In some literature, emollients that often added in cosmetic preparations also have another effect as a penetration enhancer. The purpose of this research was to observe wether emollient addition could influence the penetration of SAP in the cream formulation or not. SAP was formulated into four formulations with three different emollients: dimethicone (F1), capric triglyceride (F2), and isopropyl myristate (F3) and a formulation without the addition of emollients (F4). The diffusion test was performed by Franz's diffusion cell method using male wistar rat’s abdominal membrane as a standard model of the skin barrier. The result of stability test showed that SAP cream was stable at room temperature but unstable on freeze thaw condition described by significant different values for all formulas. Nonetheless, the diffusion test showed that F2 with the capric triglyceride as emollient had the highest ability to pass SAP through the membrane, followed by isopropyl miristate. We concluded that emollient addition could influence the penetration of the cream of SAP.Keywords: vitamin c, ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbyl phospate, emollient, penetration enhancer
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润肤剂对抗坏血酸钠乳膏制备及稳定性的影响
乳霜剂型作为一种化妆品制剂产品,被广泛应用于添加具有抗氧化活性的活性物质,如维生素C及其衍生物。抗坏血酸磷酸钠(SAP)可用于局部配方,因为它比抗坏血酸更稳定的性质。然而,很难将SAP以足够的剂量输送到真皮层。为了克服这个问题,我们偶尔可以添加穿透增强剂。在一些文献中,经常添加在化妆品制剂中的润肤剂也有另一种作用,即渗透增强剂。本研究的目的是观察润肤剂的添加是否会影响霜剂配方中SAP的渗透。SAP被配制成含有三种不同润肤剂的四种配方:二甲基硅氧烷(F1)、癸酸甘油三酯(F2)和肉豆蔻酸异丙酯(F3),以及不添加润肤剂的配方(F4)。以雄性wistar大鼠腹膜为皮肤屏障标准模型,采用Franz扩散池法进行扩散试验。稳定性试验结果表明,SAP霜在室温条件下是稳定的,在冻融条件下是不稳定的,各配方的稳定性值差异显著。然而,扩散试验表明,以癸酸甘油三酯为润肤剂的F2通过膜的SAP能力最高,其次是异丙酯。结果表明,润肤剂的添加对皂液的渗透有影响。关键词:维生素c,抗坏血酸,抗坏血酸磷酸钠,润肤剂,渗透促进剂
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