Politics, Fashion and Female Agency in Parisian Salons c. 1800: The Case of Juliette Récamier

T. Sheikhan
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Abstract

During her lifetime, Juliette Récamier (1777-1849) was widely considered as the most beautiful woman in France. Within the country’s post-revolutionary Directory and Consulate epoch, Récamier ran a salon that boasted prominent political figures and writers among its frequent guests. Récamier’s own legacy however is one of seemingly total passivity: praise aside, the impression we are left with is one of placid docility. Récamier was greatly admired, yet incapable of articulating her own thoughts and ideas. This article examines François Gérard’s portrait of Récamier. At the time, Gérard (1770-1837) was one of the period’s most successful artists, whose services Napoléon would request for his coronation portrait in 1805. Gérard’s work leads to this study’s argument that the articulation and presentation of self image in the early nineteenth century was no less layered and complex than the creation of material images. In fact, it illustrates just how much Gérard’s portrait is an image of her making as much as it is of his. We see such agency further mediated in Récamier’s shawl dance, a performative staple of the soirées she hosted. Imbuing the artistic virtues associated with neoclassical dress with the passion, sensuality, and individualistic nature of dance; this article considers Récamier’s self-fashioning on a stage exclusively within her salon.
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1800年前后巴黎沙龙中的政治、时尚和女性代理:朱丽叶·雷姆卡米尔的案例
在她的一生中,朱丽叶·雷姆卡米尔(1777-1849)被广泛认为是法国最美丽的女人。在伊朗革命后的“指南”和“领事馆”时期,雷姆卡米尔经营着一家沙龙,经常邀请著名的政治人物和作家。然而,雷姆卡米尔自己的遗产似乎是一个完全被动的人:除了赞美之外,留给我们的印象是一种平静的温顺。雷姆卡米尔非常受人钦佩,但她无法表达自己的想法和观点。本文考察了弗朗索瓦·格姆卡米尔对格姆卡米尔的描述。当时,格姆拉德(1770-1837)是这一时期最成功的艺术家之一,1805年,拿破仑曾要求格姆拉德为他的加冕肖像提供服务。gsamrard的工作引出了本研究的论点,即在19世纪早期,自我形象的表达和呈现并不比物质形象的创造更分层和复杂。事实上,这说明了格萨玛德的肖像在多大程度上既是他的肖像,也是她的肖像。在她主持的社交活动中,我们看到这种能动性在她的披肩舞中得到了进一步的体现。将与新古典主义服装相关的艺术美德与舞蹈的激情、感性和个人主义本质相结合;这篇文章只考虑了rassacamier在她的沙龙舞台上的自我塑造。
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