Frottement de fond sous une houle irrégulière linéaire

Abstract

Time dependant bottom shear stress under a complex wave given by a JONSWAP spectrum is computed with a turbulent boundary layer numerical model. A parameterized formula enables us to retrieve with a good agreement the time series of the bottom shear stress given by the model from the instantaneous velocity associated to the wave out of the boundary layer, the Nikuradse rugosity and the spectrum peak period.