{"title":"旗帜与时尚:通过女同性恋服装表达团结。","authors":"Eleanor Medhurst","doi":"10.1080/10894160.2023.2246250","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>The clothes worn by lesbians are rich in meaning. Sometimes, they can help us to understand lesbian history and the social, personal, political, and erotic context of lesbian lives in the past. As LGBTQ communities have grown and the connections between groups within it have become at once stronger and more complicated, the clothes that lesbians (and others) wear can function as narrators. Lesbian fashion can be a tool for solidarity, our ideals worn quite literally on our sleeves. This paper is an analysis of how clothing has been - and is being - used by lesbians to show support for other groups within LGBTQ communities, through a fashion history lens. The focus is on printed t-shirts as well as clothing in different Pride flag colours, which I propose can be understood as a kind of \"flagging.\" Flagging, here, is a way to understand the intentional choices made by lesbians and other LGBTQ + people when signalling personal identities and intra-community solidarities through dress. When solidarity activism is placed directly onto the lesbian body, it is personal, and can craft specific messages. These messages, constructed from a language of identities, visual culture, and physical garments, are what this paper seeks to examine.</p>","PeriodicalId":46044,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Lesbian Studies","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.1000,"publicationDate":"2024-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Flags and fashion: expressions of solidarity through lesbian clothing.\",\"authors\":\"Eleanor Medhurst\",\"doi\":\"10.1080/10894160.2023.2246250\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"<p><p>The clothes worn by lesbians are rich in meaning. Sometimes, they can help us to understand lesbian history and the social, personal, political, and erotic context of lesbian lives in the past. As LGBTQ communities have grown and the connections between groups within it have become at once stronger and more complicated, the clothes that lesbians (and others) wear can function as narrators. Lesbian fashion can be a tool for solidarity, our ideals worn quite literally on our sleeves. This paper is an analysis of how clothing has been - and is being - used by lesbians to show support for other groups within LGBTQ communities, through a fashion history lens. The focus is on printed t-shirts as well as clothing in different Pride flag colours, which I propose can be understood as a kind of \\\"flagging.\\\" Flagging, here, is a way to understand the intentional choices made by lesbians and other LGBTQ + people when signalling personal identities and intra-community solidarities through dress. When solidarity activism is placed directly onto the lesbian body, it is personal, and can craft specific messages. These messages, constructed from a language of identities, visual culture, and physical garments, are what this paper seeks to examine.</p>\",\"PeriodicalId\":46044,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Journal of Lesbian Studies\",\"volume\":null,\"pages\":null},\"PeriodicalIF\":1.1000,\"publicationDate\":\"2024-01-01\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Journal of Lesbian Studies\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"1085\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://doi.org/10.1080/10894160.2023.2246250\",\"RegionNum\":0,\"RegionCategory\":null,\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"2023/9/14 0:00:00\",\"PubModel\":\"Epub\",\"JCR\":\"Q2\",\"JCRName\":\"SOCIAL SCIENCES, INTERDISCIPLINARY\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Journal of Lesbian Studies","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1080/10894160.2023.2246250","RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":null,"ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"2023/9/14 0:00:00","PubModel":"Epub","JCR":"Q2","JCRName":"SOCIAL SCIENCES, INTERDISCIPLINARY","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
摘要
女同性恋者所穿的衣服蕴含着丰富的意义。有时,它们可以帮助我们了解女同性恋的历史以及过去女同性恋生活的社会、个人、政治和情色背景。随着女同性恋、男同性恋、双性恋和变性者(LGBTQ)群体的发展壮大,其中各群体之间的联系也变得更加紧密和复杂,女同性恋(和其他人)所穿的衣服可以起到叙述者的作用。女同性恋的时尚可以成为团结的工具,我们的理想就穿在我们的袖子上。本文通过时装史的视角,分析女同性恋者过去和现在如何利用服装来表达对 LGBTQ 群体中其他群体的支持。本文的重点是印花 T 恤衫以及不同颜色的骄傲旗帜服装,我认为这可以理解为一种 "打旗语"。在这里,"旗帜 "是一种理解女同性恋者和其他 LGBTQ +人群在通过着装表达个人身份和群体内部团结时所做出的有意选择的方式。当团结行动主义被直接置于女同性恋者的身体上时,它是个人的,并能精心设计特定的信息。这些信息由身份语言、视觉文化和身体服饰构建而成,正是本文试图研究的内容。
Flags and fashion: expressions of solidarity through lesbian clothing.
The clothes worn by lesbians are rich in meaning. Sometimes, they can help us to understand lesbian history and the social, personal, political, and erotic context of lesbian lives in the past. As LGBTQ communities have grown and the connections between groups within it have become at once stronger and more complicated, the clothes that lesbians (and others) wear can function as narrators. Lesbian fashion can be a tool for solidarity, our ideals worn quite literally on our sleeves. This paper is an analysis of how clothing has been - and is being - used by lesbians to show support for other groups within LGBTQ communities, through a fashion history lens. The focus is on printed t-shirts as well as clothing in different Pride flag colours, which I propose can be understood as a kind of "flagging." Flagging, here, is a way to understand the intentional choices made by lesbians and other LGBTQ + people when signalling personal identities and intra-community solidarities through dress. When solidarity activism is placed directly onto the lesbian body, it is personal, and can craft specific messages. These messages, constructed from a language of identities, visual culture, and physical garments, are what this paper seeks to examine.
期刊介绍:
The Journal of Lesbian Studies examines the cultural, historical, and interpersonal impact of the lesbian experience on society, keeping all readers—professional, academic, or general—informed and up to date on current findings, resources, and community concerns. Independent scholars, professors, students, and lay people will find this interdisciplinary journal essential on the topic of lesbian studies!