法国:与厄运一代共进晚餐

Lucie Perineau
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摘要

法国烹饪正在走下坡路。事实上,自20世纪60年代以来,这种趋势就一直在发展,当时女性放弃了厨房,转而从事工作。但问题不仅仅是时间不够:我们的整个饮食文化似乎都在挣扎。对转基因生物的困惑,对疯牛病的厌恶,对垃圾食品的致命吸引,法国消费者已经失去了对购物车和饮食的控制,对烹饪也失去了兴趣。因此,食物的社交功能正在消失:今天,和朋友一起吃饭可能是一种令人生畏的经历。奇怪的是,这并不能阻止大多数法国人认为他们的烹饪“仍然是世界上最好的”,并对其他国家的烹饪不屑一顾;这正是其垮台的原因之一。今天,当英国和美国的厨师接管了传统的法国烹饪,是时候进行另一场法国食物革命了。
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France: Dining with the Doom Generation
French cooking is going down the drain. In fact, it9s been going that way since the 1960s9, when women abandoned the kitchen to take up jobs. But there9s more to the problem than a mere lack of time: our whole food culture seems to be floundering. Confused by GMOs, disgusted by mad cow attacks and fatally attracted to junk food, French consumers have lost control over their shopping carts and diets, and lost interest in cooking. As a result, the social function of food is disappearing: today, dining with your friends can be a daunting experience. Oddly, this does not prevent most French from seeing their cooking as "still the best in the world", and dismissing the others; this is precisely one of the reasons of its downfall. Today, as British and American chefs take over traditional French cooking, it9s definitely time for another French food revolution.
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