极限服装:与西蒙娜的对话Rybáková

Sofia Pantouvaki
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引用次数: 5

摘要

这一贡献源于与西蒙娜Rybáková的一系列讨论,西蒙娜是捷克服装设计师,也是2011年布拉格四年展(PQ11)上极限服装展的策展人。在对最近几届布拉格四年展的服装进行概述之后,本文重点介绍了极限服装展,该展览以全面独立的方式展示了最前沿的服装实践,首次与PQ11一般表演设计展分开展示。讨论提供了对极端服装展览策展过程的批判性反思,并阐明了策展人在具体选择背后的询问和意图。它包括对观众反应的回顾,最重要的是,总结了Rybáková对她个人“解放”的见解,从她长期作为服装设计师的职业角色到服装策展人的角色,与她的同事一起为这次展览的目的而工作。鉴于关于极限服装的现有文件有限,这项贡献的目的是双重的:提供关于这一重大事件的范围和影响的资源;并为服装研究提供材料,以进一步探讨超越其原始表演的背景来展示服装。
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Extreme Costume: A conversation with Simona Rybáková
This contribution is developed from a series of discussions with Simona Rybáková, Czech costume designer and curator of the Extreme Costume exhibition that was presented at the Prague Quadrennial in 2011 (PQ11). Following an overview on the presence of costume at recent editions of the Prague Quadrennial, this text focuses on the Extreme Costume exhibition, which showcased cutting edge costume practice in a full-scale independent display, for the first time shown separately from the PQ11 general performance design exhibition. The discussion provides a critical reflection on the curatorial process for the Extreme Costume exhibition and illuminates the curator’s enquiry and her intentions behind specific choices. It includes a review of the audience’s response and, most importantly, concludes with Rybáková’s insights on her personal ‘emancipation’ from her long-lasting professional role as costume designer to the role of costume curator working with her colleagues’ practice for the purposes of this exhibition. Given the limited documentation available about Extreme Costume, the aim of this contribution is dual: to provide a resource on the scope and reach of this significant event; and to offer materials to costume research for further discussion related to exhibiting costume beyond the context of its original performance.
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