灰鹧鸪与中年羊肉:以中国多纳蒂为代表的天宗地区食物的社会价值

D. Callegari
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摘要

杰克·古迪(Jack Goody)在研究将不同时代和地点的人类社会联系在一起的饮食习惯时指出,乔叟笔下的人物——尤其是美食家富兰克林(Franklin)和彬彬有礼的医生(physician)——提供了“一幅中世纪饮食方式的图景,这种饮食方式以等级区分为特征,最不可能是纯粹的‘文学’。”碰巧的是,最近的研究已经证实,在中世纪的欧洲,这种等级的区分是食物和食物方式的一个决定性特征,被消费和消费者都是一个精心设计的分类系统的一部分,这个分类系统决定和确认了每一种食物的社会价值。这种分类法并不局限于人类类型和人类行为,而是作为与消费世界的对话。根据其内在优点对可食用植物和动物进行严格的编纂,适合于具有相关地位的人的饮食,反过来,饮食和口味也转变为对称地反映在社区中的地位。在评论这种社会烹饪结构的僵化时,艾伦·格里科(Allen Grieco)观察到,在中世纪的欧洲,食物是区分的主要因素,社会秩序和食物之间的联系有时可能构成一种“准共生关系”。正如古迪所指出的那样,一个作家不可能忽视他所处社会的这一不可或缺的因素,如果没有对食物的社会等级的全面认识,就无法正确理解中世纪文学中提到的食物或饮食习惯。
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Grey Partridge and Middle-Aged Mutton: The Social Value of Food in the Tenzone with Forese Donati
����� ��� n his study of the food practices that tie human communities of different times and places together, Jack Goody noted that Chaucer’s characters—thinking especially of the gourmand Franklin and the well-mannered Physician—offer “a picture of medieval food-ways that is marked by hierarchical distinction and is most unlikely to be purely ‘literary.’ 1 As it happens, more recent research has confirmed that hier archical distinction was a defining characteristic of food and foodways in the European Middle Ages, and that both consumed and consumer were part of a carefully elaborated system of classification that determined and confirmed the social values of each. 2 This taxonomy was not limited to human types and human behaviors but instead acted as a dialogue with the consumable world. The strict codification of edible plants and animals according to their intrinsic virtues was appropriated to the diets of people of correlated status, and in turn, diets and palates shifted to symmetrically reflect status in the community. Commenting on the rigidity of this social-culinary structure, Allen Grieco has observed that food was a primary element of distinction in medieval Europe, and the link between social order and food could sometimes constitute a “quasi-symbiotic rela tionship.”3 As Goody suggested, it is unlikely that an author could have ignored this integral element of his society, and no mention of food or eating habits in medieval literature can be properly understood without a full vision of the social hierarchy of food.
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