Learning from Lisbon Or, how postmodernism conquered Portugal

The Amoreiras shopping centre in Lisbon is an icon of Portuguese postmodernism. When it first opened in 1985, its kitsch design stood out conspicuously amidst a landscape of smart Pombaline shopping streets, social housing tower blocks and tourist-friendly houses clad in “traditional” azulejo tiles. But it also reflected a pivotal moment in Portuguese history and still stands today as a reminder of the consumerist aspirations of post-revolutionary Portugal, the neoliberal policies that have come to dominate life in many Western nations and the stark contradictions of global capitalism. Departing from an initial discussion of Amoreiras, this short essay critically explores recent transformations to Lisbon’s urban and architectural landscape and traces their political and economic origins. In so doing, it suggests ways in which postmodernism might be considered a relevant concept for describing contemporary Portuguese society.