什么是“亚洲”美?中国人和韩国人在墨西哥和秘鲁的化妆品行业出现了种族化

Andrea Gómez
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摘要

本文将试图回答,拉丁美洲对“亚洲”美的理解是什么,以及种族、历史和政治如何转变为对中国和韩国美学和形体的几乎相反的接受。它是基于我对美和化妆在外貌协商构建中的作用的研究。首先,我将探讨由殖民强加到后来成为秘鲁和墨西哥的领土上的美和种族概念。然后,我将探讨如何策略性地利用这些手段来加强对土著居民的压迫和歧视性待遇。此外,我将重点关注韩国目前向墨西哥市场提供的化妆品,以及在过去十年中其美容版本的接受情况。网络潮流促进了国内对韩国美容化妆品的需求,这是涉及“软实力”政治的众多韩国产业之一。关于健康和青年的统一定义是其成功的象征性动力;对苗条、浅肤色和传统女性化身材的种族偏见,有助于将“亚洲”美推销为鼓舞人心的美。之后,我将探讨被调查者认为是“中国人”的东西,他们指的是产品还是审美表现,以及他们与阶级和种族理想的距离。我的论点是基于华裔在秘鲁和墨西哥仍然遇到的复杂待遇;包括作为一个秘鲁华裔,我的身体被修饰和化妆的方式。
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What is “Asian” beauty? Chinese and South Korean racialized appearances in the Mexican and Peruvian makeup industries1
This article will try to answer, what is understood by “Asian” beauty in Latin America and how race, history and politics have decanted to the almost opposite reception of Chinese and South Korean aesthetics and corporalities. It is based on my research on beauty and the role of makeup in the negotiated construction of appearances. Firstly, I will explore the concepts of beauty and race brought by colonial imposition to the territories that would become Peru and Mexico. I will then explore how these were employed strategically to reinforce the oppression and discriminatory treatment of indigenous populations. In addition, I will focus on the current cosmetic offer from South Korea to the Mexican market, and the reception its versions of beauty have had within the past decade. Online trends helped to generate local demand of K-beauty makeup, one of the many South Korean industries involved in “soft power” politics.. Convergent definitions about health and youth are symbolic motors of its success; the racial bias applied to slim, light-skinned and traditionally feminine-looking bodies helps sell “Asian” beauty as inspirational. Afterwards, I will explore what informants identified as “Chinese”, whether they were referring to products or aesthetic presentations, and their distance from class and racial desirability. My argument follows the complicated treatment Chinese-descended people still encounter in Peru and in Mexico; including the ways my own body has been addressed and altered with makeup as a Chinese–Peruvian.
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