二十世纪五六十年代列宁格勒的苏联男子、服装和外貌

IF 0.3 3区 历史学 Q2 HISTORY Gender and History Pub Date : 2023-01-10 DOI:10.1111/1468-0424.12682
Evgeniia Platonova
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引用次数: 0

摘要

本文旨在讨论 20 世纪 50 年代和 60 年代列宁格勒围绕男士服装和外表展开的对话。20 世纪 50 年代初,时尚在苏联成为一个重要的意识形态问题。斯大林主义晚期的孤立主义政策以及青年亚文化 Stiliagi 的兴起,在接下来的十年中产生了正式和非正式的机制和制度来规范苏联人的外表。时装店系统旨在为苏联公民提供现代和舒适的服装,并向他们传授 "好品味 "和得体外表的规则。列宁格勒时装屋设计和生产服装,并在官方会议和时尚杂志上讨论城市居民的各种外貌。虽然时尚在当时被认为是女性的特权,但时装店还是考虑到了男性顾客的需求,为他们提供了各种服装。本文认为,列宁格勒的时装店构建了自己的男性形象,这种形象没有受到当局的重大影响,大多数男性市民也无法坚持这种形象。
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Soviet men, clothing and appearance in Leningrad in the 1950s and 1960s

This article aims to discuss the conversations around men's clothing and appearance in Leningrad during the 1950s and 1960s. In the early 1950s, fashion became an important ideological issue in the Soviet Union. The policy of isolationism of late Stalinism alongside the rise of youth subculture stiliagi produced the emergence of formal and informal mechanisms and regimes of regulation of appearance of the Soviet population for the next decade. The system of fashion houses aimed to provide Soviet citizens with contemporary and comfortable clothing and teach them the rules of ‘good taste’ and a proper appearance. The Leningrad Fashion House designed and produced clothing and discussed the variants of appearance of the city residents at official meetings and in fashion magazines. Although fashion was considered as woman's prerogative at the time, the fashion house took into account male customers’ needs and provided them with various clothing items. This article argues that the fashion house in Leningrad constructed its own vision of masculinity that was not significantly influenced by the authorities and to which most male citizens could not adhere.

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来源期刊
Gender and History
Gender and History Multiple-
CiteScore
0.90
自引率
0.00%
发文量
83
期刊介绍: Gender & History is now established as the major international journal for research and writing on the history of femininity and masculinity and of gender relations. Spanning epochs and continents, Gender & History examines changing conceptions of gender, and maps the dialogue between femininities, masculinities and their historical contexts. The journal publishes rigorous and readable articles both on particular episodes in gender history and on broader methodological questions which have ramifications for the discipline as a whole.
期刊最新文献
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