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引用次数: 1
摘要
本文反映了1987年在巴西圣保罗由Emílio Di Biasi导演的作品《Carlos & Carlos的生活与时代》中“来自过去的女人”角色的身体与服装之间的关系。借鉴表演者Gaby Imparato关于她的舞台服装的描述,我基于Bodymedia理论研究了身体与服装关系的动态,该理论重新评估了舞台服装生产和服装设计研究文献中与设计过程和实践有关的身体概念。这一理论为在舞台上讨论服装和身体在共同定义的关系中交织在一起提供了工具,邀请我们重新思考服装制作中的预定资源。表演者的描述有助于验证服装设计师的意图和舞台上提供给身体的刺激,在服装设计中预先定义,如何找到其他途径来发展场景动作。这个命题允许我在舞台上讨论身体和服装之间的关系,当被理解为感知和行动的表达器时。因此,我可以把服装说成是排练和现场身体动作的激活器。
Relations between body and clothing in performance: Costume as an activator of bodily actions
This article reflects upon the relationship between body and costume in the character ‘Woman from the Past’ in the production Life and Times of Carlos & Carlos directed by Emílio Di Biasi in 1987 in São Paulo, Brazil. Drawing on the account of the
performer Gaby Imparato about her scenic dress, I investigate the dynamics of body‐costume relationship based on Bodymedia Theory, which reassesses the concept of body concerning design processes and practices in the production of scenic costumes and in the costume design research literature.
The theory provides tools to discuss costumes and bodies intertwined in a co-defined relationship while onstage, inviting us to rethink predetermined resources in costume production. The performer’s account helps to verify how the costume designer’s intentions and stimuli offered
to the body onstage, predefined in the costume design, find other paths to developing scenic actions. This proposition allows me to discuss the relationship between body and costume onstage when understood as an articulator of perception and action. Thus, I can enunciate costume as an activator
of bodily actions in rehearsals and on the scene.