20世纪60年代苏联裁缝业的管理困境

Yu. O. Papushina
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引用次数: 0

摘要

本文是对彼尔姆地区苏联裁缝业的微观分析,探讨裁缝业的管理实践、存在的问题和内部矛盾。笔者将裁缝理解为彼尔姆地区由日常服务部管理的裁缝店和车间系统。与轻工部服装设计工作室和私人服装制作相比,区域裁缝系统还没有得到充分的研究。研究的重点是服装设计管理和裁缝的产业化。这项研究的证据来自彼尔姆地区的国家档案馆。文章揭示了20世纪60年代苏联裁缝业的主要管理问题是如何在完成计划任务和顾客满意之间保持平衡。裁缝工业化试图将传统的裁缝方法与福特的组织客户产品生产的方式结合起来,这种方式在过去十年中占主导地位。大规模生产缺乏多样性,使得客户广泛使用裁缝作为替代,进一步推动了裁缝工业化的发展。裁缝专业人士和党内官僚对裁缝业的未来持不同看法。服装设计的管理实践包括行政强制和物质激励。最后,对今后的研究方向进行了展望。
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MANAGERIAL DILEMMAS IN SOVIET TAILORING IN THE 1960S
The article represents a microanalysis of Soviet tailoring in Perm region, exploring managerial practices in tailoring, its problems and internal contradictions. The author understands tailoring as the system of tailoring shops and workshops administered by the Department of Everyday service in Perm region. The regional tailoring system has not been sufficiently studied in comparison with the Clothing Design Houses of the Ministry of Light Industry and private dressmaking. The study focuses on fashion design management and the industrialization of tailoring. Evidence for the study comes from the State Archive of Perm Region. The article reveals that the main managerial problem of Soviet tailoring in the 1960s was maintaining a balance between the fulfillment of planned tasks and customer satisfaction. The tailoring industrialization attempted to combine the traditional approach to tailoring with the Fordist way of organizing customer goods production that dominated the decade. The lack of diversity in large-scale production made customers extensively use tailoring as a replacement and pushed further the development of tailoring industrialization. Tailoring professionals and party bureaucrats differed in their views on the future of tailoring. The managerial practices in fashion design included administrative enforcement and material incentives. Finally, directions for future work are discussed in the paper.
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